When we were researching where to go for my birthday, B was taken with the idea of Theo Randall at the Hotel Intercontinental at Marble Arch. In the end we decided against because the private room looked rather corporate. But she remained interested, and recently spotted the Cucina Italiano.
So when we needed somewhere to meet S for lunch, she returned to the idea. We had a few transport problems, so S arrived first, but we weren't too far behind. The restaurant is a big room with a central big green banquette. Not many people in on a Tuesday lunchtime, so very little atmosphere. Minimal decoration, soft jazz, bright lighting, low ceiling.
The wine list, naturally, soared into the stratosphere, so I settled on a Sicilian Grillo at £43. Quite sharp, but appealing. San Pellegrino sparkling water - £7 a bottle. There was a four course Regional menu with matching wines at £75 a head, and a more reasonable set lunch, but we go for the a la carte. The antipasti and primi courses had some interesting options, but there were only two fish and two meat main courses.
S started with the insalata mista, which came with goat's cheese. It was a big plate, but not enough cheese, though the tomatoes were good. My carne salata - cured beef with rocket and parmesan - was more modest but very tasty, the beef less aged and having more flavour than most bresaola. B's tuna tartare is also good. Some random bread and tomato bruschetta strangely appears without warning half-way through - good tomatoes.
For mains, B chooses tagliatelle with prawns that had a good hit of chilli. Both S and I have the roast guinea fowl. This comes stuffed with prosciutto and mascarpone, on a bruschetta (more like fried bread) with greens and mushrooms It's a sensibly sized portion, with well flavoured meat and gravy. (A couple at a nearby table share one portion, but get to pour the gravy over it themselves). We also have a big bowl of deep-fried courgettes.
S and I have dessert: Amalfi lemon tart for him - good lemon hit, but a bit flabby on the pastry; affogato for me - vanilla seeds in the ice cream, good strong coffee. We then stretch things out with a digestif - amaretto for S and me, a glass of wine for B. The waiter said that they didn't do the Grillo by the glass. but in the end he did, at £14 for 175ml.
Theo himself comes out to talk to the guinea fowl couple, but doesn't go around the room, though there are only two other table left. Our main waiter was a rather large and unsmiling character, slightly slow to top up glasses. A second waiter - the one who gave us the glass of wine - was rather more smiley and seemed to enjoy his work.
The bill included service at 13.5%, coming to £350 for 3. Maybe a bit more than we expected, but given the desserts and drinks perhaps not that surprising for such a high profile place. Perfectly fine food, but not really somewhere I would rush back to.
