Three interesting new places in a busy week

 We find ourselves in Kingston and are heading towards the Giggling Squid, a reliable favourite. As we walk along Charter Quay by the Hogsmill River tributary, we pass a Chinese restaurant which we've never been in because it always looks empty. But today, despite it being a Monday, it is very busy, with several tables occupied by Chinese people.

So we change our minds and decide to give Sanxia Renjia a go. We're shown to a window table with a nice view and quickly order a bottle of French SB at £30. It comes promptly, served by a very smiley waiter.  It is quite a big place, but sectioned off into smaller areas so that it doesn't feel daunting. 

The menu covers both Sichuan and Cantonese cuisines. There's also a substantial dim sum section. The Sichuan section offers several Clay Pot and Dry Pot options, but the aromatic crab with ginger and spring onion from the "Traditional Chinese" list has caught our eye.  Because of this, we decide just to have one starter between us - a pan-fried pork dumpling.  Typically there are three of these, making sharing trickier. They are very lightly fried, but very well-flavoured.

We had asked when ordering whether the crab came whole, and were assured that the kitchen will have cracked it open for us. The main shell with the brown meat had been, but the crab claws and legs hadn't so we had to ask for the crackers to get at the white meat. With the sauce (loads of ginger) on, it all got rather messy, but we were well-supplied with napkins and little moistened towels - the spicy sauce option would be very challenging I imagine. 

Along with the crab we had the cumin lamb (marked "hot and spicy") and fried rice with tobiko, prawns and scallops. The lamb was indeed covered with chilli pieces, but if you avoided those it wasn't too spicy otherwise.  Tobiko it turns out is a golden coloured fish eggs concoction (Wikipedia tells me it is flying fish roe) piled on top of the rice. There were plenty of prawns, but scallops were hard to find, probably cut up very small. 

With a second bottle of wine and 12.5% service (which has been friendly and helpful) the bill comes to £140.  Certainly worth another visit. 

A couple of days later we are meeting up with T&K in town.  T has chosen The Seafood Bar on Dean Street, as he knows some of their Amsterdam branches through his nephew who lives there.  It's a nice bright place, not very busy on a mid-week lunchtime.  We order some wine - a light, fruity Chardonnay at £36 - from the chatty waiter, who introduced himself as Florian. 

The menu is quite remarkable. As well as several kinds of oyster, there are loads of permutations of fresh seafood - Fruits de Mer, Mixed Grill, Combinations, Plateau - and a few other dishes from the Plancha.   B has seabass ceviche to start, which she raves over. She follows up with a Plateau - crevettes, smoked salmon, smoked mackerel rillettes, poached salmon, seafood salad. Unsurprisingly, she can't finish that. I have clams with white wine, garlic and cream sauce to start. This is a big warming bowl in a sauce commonly linked with mussels. My main course was gambas, grilled with salsa verde and chilli - have a dozen of them.  Full of flavour, with the chilli being quite subtle. 

T&K have scallops with mushrooms and chorizo and tempura oysters, in attractive shells, to start. Both looked very good. Their mains were a massive fruits de mer and filleted lemon sole. We also have some truffled chips, plain chips and mixed salad. 

We have three bottles of wine in all; service is an unusual 11.5%, making the total £326 for 4.  Definitely a good place for seafood lovers. 

Finally, on Friday evening we meet up with S&L. They like their cocktails, so we go first to Blind Spot at St Martin's Hotel. They have a range called "Spin the Globe" - unusual combinations named after various cities. A particularly odd one is called Kingston (Jamaica) which includes Guinness but comes out transparent. When we ask about this, we're told that the coconut juice combines with the stout to make it clear - very odd.

Then we walk up St Martin's Lane to Gilgamesh which S had booked because she'd received a 50% off food offer.   Named after the Sumerian king/demi-god, it describes itself as "pan-Asian".  By coincidence, I was catching up on the Observer the day before only to find a Jay Rayner review of the place - he clearly didn't like it at all! 

Admittedly, the headline "It's a weird trip" is accurate enough. We were shown downstairs to a corner table where the decor is relief depictions of Sumerian scenes. As it's quite early, there aren't many other people in as yet so they accommodate our request to turn the music down (Sade and ambient music), apart from two rather severe looking heavies at a large table nearby. 

Ignoring Rayner's comments, we press on with the prawn crackers - both white Chinese and brown Thai versions - and a rather good salsa.  We'd checked the wine list in advance and managed to find a Spanish Macabeo/SB for £38 - after that it gets scary. 

For starters, we had the cocktail glass full of popcorn shrimp (which was great), soft shell crab (quite meaty), a rich duck, watermelon and cashew nut salad and a couple of steamed dumplings off the dim sum list. 

For main, B and I share a deliciously tender "shaking beef" fillet chunks and a baked seabass fillet. S's Thai green chicken curry was a bit ordinary, but L's beef rendang with roti was also really good - a serious kick to it.  We also has some jasmine rice and pak choi. 

Desserts followed - Asian banana crumble and chocolate fondant (very gooey). 

Part way through the meal, the room started to fill up. Six or seven very scantily dressed young women joined the heavies' table. Several other tables had an older man surrounded by younger women - though I suppose that was true of our table too, though the dress code was very different!  And as I was waiting at the bottom of the stairs for the others  to come back from the loo, more young ladies in impossibly short skirts were coming down the stairs.

We had 3 bottles of wine and service was 12.5%. The discount offer saved us £100, leaving the total at a very reasonable £260 for 4. Even at full price it was worth it for the experience!

Birthday celebration weekend in Chester and the Wirral

 After celebrating my 70th with friends at the Oxo Tower on the day, we are heading up North to see my brother and the rest of his clan. Due to diaries, we can't all get together on one day, so instead we have two successive lunches.

We travel up to Chester on the Friday and meet up with G&S at The Botanist near the cathedral. I'm a bit reluctant at first as the live music downstairs was very loud, and the stairs to the first floor restaurant looked rather steep. But the others were already there, so we head on up to join them. 

The music is much more manageable up here - guitar and keyboards, quite good. It's a very quirky space, with lots of side rooms. Our table had a view downstairs of the cocktail bar. I had tried to book in here for lunch on Saturday, but they said they didn't have room, which seems surprising. 

The menu is also quirky, featuring its "Famous Hanging Kebabs". B chooses the Thai Red Prawn with coconut rice, while I go for the lamb kofte and fries. G&S go for the 3 kebab sharing option, prawn, kofte and chicken. This comes with a pile of chips and some coleslaw.

Our kebabs come on a single blade, with a sauce that you could pour through some holes at the top so that it drips down over the food. B and S agree that the prawn kebabs are very good, the spiciness building as you went on. The others are good too - a fun experience.

The desserts are also unusual featuring chocolate chip dough. We decide to go for the sharing option served with strawberries and marshmallows, ice cream, crumb and popping candy plant pot. The presentation of this is fantastic too, a multi-layered basket with the dough in a hot skillet at the bottom.

B and I share a bottle and a couple of glasses of Chilean SB, while S has a South African Shiraz and G Timothy Taylor Landlord.  Service has been good and friendly, happy to take photos of us. G&S insist on paying so I don't know how much it was, but I think that  for such a good evening it was probably well worth it.

Saturday lunchtime, we are meeting B's and A's families at The Yard, literally next door to our hotel. With G&S that makes 13 of us.  B had quite a tough time making the arrangements, and when we get shown downstairs to our table it's only laid up for 12. The waitress was under the impression it had been booked for 17 and then revised down - which was never the case. Anyway, by squeezing tables together, they do manage to arrange to add another place. 

We had had to choose our food in advance, which is never ideal, but those arrangements did work well, with the right food coming out promptly. However, choosing drinks was more problematic, as they had to re-stock - no Guinness, neither of our first two choices of red wine available, and later they had run out of coffee beans!  And they had been slow to take drinks orders, as they were serving a 40th birthday group nearby.

The food, however, was said to be good by everyone.  I had black pudding with boiled egg in a crispy wrapping and spicy chutney, B had chicken salad, which came with jalapeno peppers and was on the large side. Other choices included bruschetta of salmon, gammon terrine with quail's egg, onion soup, and breads with hummus etc. 

For main course I had seafood pasta - 4 prawns, several clams - while B went for sea bass on pea risotto. Both were lovely. Others had steaks, cod, chicken and three other different  pastas. 

Several people were choosing desserts - chocolate pots, ice cream, sticky toffee pudding - so I decide to have an affogato: ice cream, espresso and amaretto. Very indulgent. 

We'd had a couple of bottles of Grillo, and a third choice Nero D'Avolo. No dishes were more than £25, so overall it was a very reasonable price. 

In the evening we head to Sleepy Panda for a Chinese.  There are just two other people in there, and it was all rather dark. Nonetheless we take a seat and order. Some prawn crackers are delivered. We start with some dim sum: prawn dumpling, pork dumpling. For mains we have crispy beef chilli birds nest - deep-fried beef, tasting just of chilli sauce, in a crispy edible basket - and mixed seafood hot pot. The latter just has a couple of prawns and a lot of yellowy parcels. When we ask it seems these are Japanese tofu, or cheese tofu. Not unpleasant but not seafood. 

With one bottle of Chilean SB and 10% service this comes to £78. Service has been fine, but it's not somewhere I'd recommend.  

On Sunday we get a taxi to the Wirral, The Ship in Parkgate. There we are seeing E's family - just E&E and three of the kids, plus close friends A&J - 11 in all. G&S booked us into a private room in the centre of the restaurant. It's very pleasant because it has windows to look out on the rest of the place, so it is light and not remote-feeling or corporate. 

Drinks service is very swift - we are into our first bottle of SB, a Pato Torronte from Chile - before the others arrive. For some reason, the specialities are Czech dishes, so I decide to go with both. The starter is Smazeny Syr - deep-fried camembert with cranberry and dill. Very nice but especially Czech really. The main course is Hovezi Gulas - beef goulash with dumplings and pickled red onion, inexplicably billed as "light bites". The beef was tasty, but I couldn't get half-way through just one of the dumplings. 

B goes for the wild mushrooms on toast, which I'd also been considering. There's a good mix of mushrooms in a creamy sauce together with a truffle parmesan crisp. Her main course is blade of beef, more like pulled beef in red wine gravy. 

The camembert was a popular choice. Others included chorizo croquettes, parsnip soup with Bombay butter, a gooey mackerel pate and some bread and oils. 

There were roasts on the Sunday menu - we had chicken, beef topside and forestiere Wellington. Also mushroom risottos and seabass. 

Desserts included limoncello tiramisu, raspberry ice cream, brownies and sticky toffee pudding.  Also a cheese board. 

Finally someone had kindly arranged for a birthday cake for me - not the full 70 candles fortunately!

Again a very reasonable bill (10% service, 4 bottles of wine and various beers and soft drinks). And very good, efficient and friendly service.  

Later, back in Chester, we cross the road and fetch up in Gate of India.  We get a very nice booth; warm feeling throughout. Overwhelming choice on the menu. Papadums come with a huge array of dips, including three types of hot lime pickle. We have a lamb tikka and a meat samosa to start.

These are followed up with chicken dhansak, prawn jalfrezi and pilau rice. Both the lamb and the chicken were in slices rather than chunks, but both were tasty. The prawn dish was seriously hot 

Total came to £95 including service and a bottle of very nice Burgundy. 

Catching up!

Catching up – Dec/Jan

Meeting up with S, he chooses the one Italian option as opposed to four French ones.  This is Caraffini on Lower Sloane Street. There is an outside terrace, but that’s not suitable in December.

Inside is pretty much full. We get directed to a table, crammed in by a wine bucket, already full of other people’s wine. B complains, and reluctantly they do move it further away. And also we get our own wine bucket on the table for the Grillo at £38!

We say yes bread and olives, and then move on to starters. S has sardines, which look good; B has some odd pork rolls and I have prawns in garlic and chilli. For mains S has a very pink calves liver, B has scampi with asparagus, and I have lemon veal.

We go for some desserts – S had panna cotto and I have sgroppino (lemon sorbet, vodka and champagne).

Service has been good after the initial contretemps. As well as a second bottle of Grillo, we also a Barbera d’Alba at £48. 12.5% service takes to £340, but it has all been good.

 

We are staying at a hotel near St Pancras before an early start on a train to Bruges for Christmas. Having looked at the options, we settle on Supawan, a Thai place on the Caledonian Road. It’s pretty busy, so we get put into a smallish table sitting at 90 degrees. The décor is very unusual – not cliché Thai.

We order some prawn crackers while we order (large portion), along with Viognier at £35. For starters, we have grilled prawns on Betel leaves, with loads of tasty trimmings, ordering the extra portion as suggested to take it to two each. Excellent. Along with the inevitable soft-shell crab, quite meaty.

Main courses are stir-fried king prawns with lemongrass and garlic, and a spicy minced chicken dish, supported by a mound of jasmine rice.

All very good, with friendly service, but the prices did mount up. With a second bottle and 12.5% service we get up to £170, which seems a lot for a Thai.

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We meet up with E and J in Covent Garden for a visit to SushiSamba, and start off with edamame beans. The wine list escalates alarmingly – I manage to find a Verminto for £49. We have a round of jumbo prawns, tuna ceviche, and soft shell crab roll. The J wants to order the trio of meats - rib-eye, chorizo, filet mignon – “Churrasco del Rio Grande”.  E has the mushroom dish.

We later have a bottle of red chosen by J who is insisting on paying, so I don’t know how much the bill came to – it won’t have been cheap.

Before heading off to Paris for a few days, we treat ourselves to a late lunch at Mem’s, our newish place locally. They do a 2 course fixed price lunch for £43, which like its predecessor has a limited range of dishes.

We’re offered canape drinks and an amuse bouche, both very nice. Their house Chenin Blanc is a very reasonable £28 a bottle.

I have the duck rillette (solid) and treat myself to a surf and turf for a £15 supplement. The “surf” is two large tiger prawns.  B has Bluefin Tuna tartare followed by venison loin.

I have a couple of glasses of Malbec (not so reasonable at £15 each), while B has another glass of Chenin.

All in all, £190 including 12.5% service, which has been fine – we are the only ones in there most of the time.

 

Meeting up with P&M. P wanted to go to the new Battersea Power station complex, so after some research we settled on Brindisa. It’s not as attractive a venue as the one in Richmond, though sitting outside in the summer it might be better.

We are there first, so get the better view. We order a white Rioja (Veltiver) for £36, which goes down well. B and I order the garlic prawns, chicken with mojo rojo (a red sauce from the Canaries), chorizo on toast with pepper and rocket (excellent) and Iberico pork cheeks with chocolate and rioja (very tender, but got cold quickly). P&M add more prawns, tortilla and patatas bravas. We also have bread.

We move on to a couple of desserts. P has the ice cream, while I go for the almond tart.

Four bottles in all, a slightly cheeky 13.5% service (it’s not been great) and that takes us just shy of £300 for the four of us. Not expensive, but I wouldn’t recommend it.

 

Before the theatre, we’ve chosen a Vietnamese place in Garrick Street called Com Viet. It’s nearly full on the ground floor, but we get a table by the window. There is a larger room downstairs, but they were still turning people away.

For starters we have soft shell crab (OK) and something called Com Viet Cha. This is minced pork and prawns, with mint and coriander leaves, that you wrap in dipped rice paper, which resembles a condom. Very messy, but the fresh herbs make it very tasty.

Mains are stewed pork belly (rather fatty to my taste, but B likes it) and wok-tossed duck breast with lemongrass and chilli. There a lot of wok-tossed options, a few seabass ones and not much else to choose from.

We have a bottle and two glasses of NZ SB (£51 together) – total £115 with 12.5% service.

B was pleased with it, but I thought the pork was a downside.

 

  

City Chinese

After a wine tasting at Vintner's Hall - a lovely venue - we've decided to try out a a Chinese, Kirin's in College Hill. Clearly our taste buds and discrimination may not have been quite up to scratch, but it was a remarkably good venue. 

The main room is slightly sunken from the road, but warm and welcoming. There must be 50 covers in the main room - there are two private dining rooms complete with karaoke systems! Several of the larger tables are occupied by groups of 8 or more. We are given a table more or less in the middle of the restaurant which offered good views of what was going on, and sensibly distanced from other tables.  

For starters,  we order the grilled pork dumplings and the salt and chilli soft-shell crab. The crab is described as "hot" on the menu and there are indeed loads of chilli pieces, and some smaller chilli flakes. But again although there was a good amount of crab-meat compared with some, there was not a great deal of flavour. The dumplings were fine, with light soy sauce. 

As we have our starters, we watch with amazement a huge dish placed at the next table, for three. Our first main course was prawns with scallops in XO sauce. This is a very fresh and light dish with a good amount of seafood. Our second dish was sauteed sliced beef in sizzling chilli oil - a huge dish like the table next door., there's no way we would ever make much impact on that. It's billed as "very hot", but it's not too over the top. The beef is tender and lean. We also have an egg-fried rice. 

Service has been prompt but largely anonymous. With a bottle of Chenin Blanc at £27 and some sparkling water, the bill comes to over £120 including 12.5% service which is a little surprising. We do however take away a large portion of the beef and at least half of the rice. It was also quite a classy place.

Smart and sophisticated

 We are going out with S a couple of days before his birthday. B's suggested we head to The Arlington, because she'd read about it in the paper.  It's on the site of Le Caprice, just round the corner from the Ritz, and is another one in the Jeremy King stable (The Ivy, Wolseley etc). Clearly the place to be seen.

The decor is all very black and white, gleaming counters, celeb photos (when we asked where the ladies was we were told "turn left at Michael Caine"). It's quite roomy, tables placed well apart, and has the nice gentle hum of people enjoying themselves. No celebs actually present though. 

There's quite an extensive wine list as you might expect, with lots of choice in the £50-£70 range. But we decide we'll stick with the Grillo, the cheapest on the list at £36 - it's perfectly fine. 

S decides to start with a tomato and basil galette. This comes as a big splodge, looking rather like a steak tartare. He's very pleased with it, and the accompanying bread. B has a crispy duck salad, which is quite a large portion, with good flavoured duck with plenty of cashews and zingy watercress. My bang bang chicken is good too - the peanut sauce has a good kick but doesn't drown the good, moist chicken. Plenty of peanuts in what is effectively a satay sauce. 

S's main is loin of tuna with spiced lentils. The tuna is cooked just right and the lentils apparently quite spicy. B settles for stonebass ceviche - really another starter, but apparently very rich and a good size. This comes with avocado and has a chilli kick. They each order a rocket and parmesan salad as a side dish. My calf's liver is another large portion - 5 or 6 slices of liver, with a few slices of very crisp bacon and a few piles of mash.  There is apparently a "sauce diable", but though it was good, I couldn't notice anything devilish. 

We decide we will go for dessert. S has the elderflower jelly with summer fruits which is fairly uninteresting. B and I share a "hokey pokey" - honeycomb with ice cream and chocolate sauce - which is good fun.

There have been lots of staff kicking around so service has been good, with glasses re-filled without fail. We had a second bottle of wine and some sparkling water, taking the bill to £243 - onto which they added a whacking 15% service, taking it up to £280. Still less than £100 a head, so for a classy place pretty fair. 

New, modern restaurant in Surbiton

 One of our frequent haunts, No 97, closed recently, but has now re-opened as Mem's. We had a free prosecco and raspberry as a promotion just before it opened, and we have sat outside before for a drink. But after a farmers' market  - which it is right by - we now decide to go there for lunch. 

It's a nice day, so we decide we will sit outside - there are a few others outside too.   We order a bottle of Chenin Blanc which at £24 is pretty good value, though it takes a little while to arrive. It transpires that our waitress was new. One of the downsides to No 97 had been that there were only 3 choices per course. At Mem's it's not much different - 4 or 5 choices - though they all sound lovely.

We decide we would share starters - bluefin tuna and cured sea bass. I order the guinea fowl as main, but B decides on just having a second starter, beef tartare. The waitress seems dubious as to whether that would be allowed! Of course, there is no problem. 

The tuna is nicely seared and pink. The accompanying wasabi slaw is not too strong, sesame and basil are good clean flavours. The sea bass comes with white crabmeat spiced with chilli - again quite subtly. Both are attractively presented, as No 97 used to do.

B's second starter is beef tartare. This comes beautifully presented on a slice of brioche toast. My guinea fowl is rather more ordinary in presentation, but lovely and moist, very well-judged cooking.  We also have a truffle Caesar salad - not much truffle but fine otherwise. 

A young couple come to sit outside with the remains of their wine and we get into a deep conversation about local restaurants. It's been very pleasant sitting in the sunshine, and after the false start the service was fine. With a second bottle of wine the total comes to £132 including 12.5% service. 

Cloth, near Bart's

 We are planning to meet up with G, so having recently read a Grace Dent review we decide to book in at Cloth in Cloth Fair,  right by St Bartholomew's the Great, the church used in the last wedding of Four Weddings and a Funeral.  I remember it as a restaurant called Betjeman's and I do overhear someone at another table say that it used to be Betjeman's house. 

The day before, G texts to say she can't come, there'd been a mix-up in dates. We decide to go ahead anyway, though we don't bother to alter the booking.  When we get there, a little early shortly after 1pm, the place is heaving - this is on a Tuesday.  There are a couple of cramped tables for 2 available in the first room - we get shown through to the second room where we get a nice table in the window, overlooking the church. It is laid for 3 people as per the booking, so we then have a lot of space (effectively a table for 4) rather than being squeezed in - a neat trick!

First impressions - everyone seems to be having lentils; the demographic is completely white and very grey; and it is extremely loud. G is rather hard of hearing so it might well have been very difficult for her - as it is, the two of us have enough trouble talking across the table. The volume is simply down to the voices of people crammed into the small rooms and hard surfaces all round, including marble-top tables. 

When we look at the menu it seems that lentils come with the set lunch, where lamb shoulder has been replaced with pork belly. We decide to go a la carte and choose the Iberico ham at £24 to share to start, which rather meanly doesn't come with bread so we have to order that extra. It takes a while to flag down a waitress (as we are in the furthest reaches of the restaurant)  We order the Zeuger Sauvignon Blanc which turns out to come from Austria. It's the second cheapest on the list at £43 - this clearly isn't going to be a cheap meal. The set menu is just £29 for three courses - hence all the lentils.

There are two types of bread - both delicious. The ham itself is slightly warm, glistening, and presented beautifully, with small slices positioned in circles on the plate. Crockery is eclectic, like being at your gran's.  The decor is eclectic too, walls packed with an odd collection of stylised "old" pictures and drawings with no apparent theme or logic. 

For main course B orders the crab risotto (£26). This comes as one mass on another odd plate. It's a plate of luxury - rich, warming, full of flavour. Although it looks a big portion, with every mouthful the same, B polishes it off with enthusiasm.  I have chosen the monkfish and langoustine, the most expensive item on the menu at £35. This too is a largish portion with plenty of firm monkfish and some less interesting seafood. The lobster bisque it comes in is excellent. 

Despite the size of the dishes, I decide to have dessert as I had seen a very pretty one on the neighbouring table. It's honey custard with lemon curd and honey and pistachio parfait biscuits - good biscuits, sharp lemon. 

Although some tables have been vacated, there are still people coming in at 2.30pm or later. At the end of the meal we ask the friendly waitress if it's always this busy. It seems that as well as the Guardian review, there had been a very good one in the Times, so it may be a slightly temporary situation. There was also someone at another table taking detailed notes, and being treated to wine selections by the owners, so probably another review to come.

We get the bill, but notice they had only charged us for one bottle of wine. Being honest souls we point this out. Service charge is the insidious 13.5%. Total, just over £200, which to be fair is about what Grace indicated (by the time you add in pricey wine).  It's been a very enjoyable, well-paced lunch, good to have experienced, but I think one only for special occasions with people able to cope with the noise.