Michelin starred restaurant lives up to its reputation

I’m meeting C for lunch at Chez Bruce, the Michelin-starred restaurant by Wandsworth Common, looking forward to it immensely as I’ve always fancied going there. It’s a lovely sunny day, and the place looks a picture with its pretty window-boxes and elegant design.  Inside it is light and airy, less than half-full at 12.30 on a Thursday.


We order from the set menu (£27.50 for three courses), though with 7 or 8 choices per course, it feels more like a full a la carte.  C isn’t drinking so I go for a carafe of the house white, a Vermentino, from  Pays d’Oc,  which at £11.50 a half bottle is pretty reasonable. As you might expect the wine list goes up to some serious heights but it also has several wines at £30 or less, so your wallet is not necessarily that challenged.

We’re offered a parmesan crisp and then some lovely bread – we both have walnut. The service is alert and attentive, friendly without being intrusive – all it should be.

Starters arrive in decent time – though as we were chatting so much I may not have been paying full attention to the timing.  C has an asparagus and pea parcel with herb vinaigrette and mascarpone. This is deemed to be very good, very fresh and springlike, the parcel being a light pancake.  My salmon sashimi comes with a couple of prawn dim sum and ginger – bright, fresh, sharp.
The restaurant is filling up more now – a good mix of age ranges, a young family, middle-aged ladies who lunch, an older couple and some business types. All seem relaxed and enjoying themselves, as are we.

C’s main course is cod with truffle mash, cabbage, mushrooms and bacon. Perfectly cooked and attractively presented, this is another seasonally appropriate dish –and much approved of.  I’ve chosen the lamb tagine and kofta. The presentation of this is something of a surprise. The tagine is a ring of meat served with harissa aubergine (super) on the main plate; the kofta and bulgar wheat arrive in a separate dish for some reason.  But regardless of this idiosyncrasy, it all tastes wonderful, a mix of textures and flavours that makes each mouthful interesting.

As always when it’s available I choose the crème brûlée. I’m challenged to define what makes an excellent crème brûlée – this seems to be it. First it’s in a wide shallow dish, rather than a ramekin, making the ratio of brûlée to crème much better. Second it’s piping hot. And third it has a good hit of vanilla – and no messy fruit.
C’s dessert seems to be the one less than perfect note -  coconut panna cotta with mango salad, lychee sorbet and lime. It’s a bit of a mess, both of style and flavours, nothing individually wrong of course, but not a great synthesis.  So thank goodness there’s room for improvement!

It’s been a super lunch, and at less than £80 for two excellent value. It’s the sort of place that makes you feel at one with the world, so when back out in the sunshine I take a leisurely and relaxed stroll around the common, watching the ducks. Must go back soon.