Long weekend in Hove

We’re staying with M&G in Hove for the Bank Holiday weekend. After an excellent meal cooked by M on the Friday, we go to Pike and Pine in St James St on the Saturday. This used to just be a coffee place, but it has gone upmarket into a modern English restaurant. It’s still fairly relaxed and casual with a big counter for several diners – though we have a table.

Our table isn’t ready when we arrive, so we sit outside for a bit with a bottle of “Duke of Marlborough” NZ Sauvignon Blanc at £34. At the table G also tries a glass of Toh! from Italy, which we follow up with a bottle (£36), then a bottle of Soli, a Bulgarian Pinot Noir (£34). There were cheaper options, SA False Bay chenin for example, but it was good to branch out for a change.

 From the “small plates for sharing” section we chose the duck leg with peanut butter, citrus cured halibut fishcake, and two crab mayonnaise.  An interesting combination of flavours.
 The menu is rather limited, with just five “larger plates” options. However, we did manage to select four different dishes: lamb shank with an intriguing walnut pesto; chicken breast with truffled leeks; poached trout, unusually paired with ox tongue; pork belly with roasted peppers. Supported by confit potato with caramel onions and gruyere, and buttered peas with spring onions. Top marks all round.
 
 G decided he’d have the rice pudding with tonka bean (nope, me neither), so to keep him company I went for the popcorn cheesecake – remarkable.


 With some coffee and water, this came to a very reasonable £240 for the four of us, despite the pricier wines. Then they added only 10% service, a pleasing change from the norm. Service had been helpful and friendly, and the place had a lively buzz – a good choice.
 Sunday lunchtime is lovely and sunny, so M&G direct us to a backstreet seafood restaurant where we can sit outside. In fact, The Urchin is a “shellfish and craft beer” pub, so G was in his element with a huge range to choose from – this time he had the Beavertown Neck Oil, while the rest of us went with the French Viognier at £20.


 The regular menu here is very short indeed: cockles and oysters, 4 starters and 3 mains.  But the highlight is a very innovative sounding range of specials on the blackboard.  My first choice starter from the specials was already “off” even though we were eating early, so I had a spicy beetroot spring roll instead, which was surprisingly good. Other choices were scallops with chive, ceviche and potted crab (off the regular menu).


 Although these were all fine, the highlight was the mains – and how they were presented. All came in big round metal pots with lids that opened up to be used to put discarded shells.  B and I had similar dishes – Malaysian prawns from the regular menu, and Goan prawns from the specials.  Both dishes were 6 large prawns in a rich spicy sauce over pulses – green or red lentils – and very messy!  M’s feijoada, also included 6 prawns with the beans and rice, while G had Thai mussels.  It was intriguing to note the different attitudes to peeling the prawns: M peeled all six at once, while I peeled and ate. Something about being prepared to accept deferred gratification for a cleaner result against my urge to be greedy!


 The dishes were all very filling, so we almost didn’t need the chips, and certainly didn’t need the two dishes of leaves. No room to test out desserts.


 It’s only a small place, so the outside area filled up quite quickly, and it’s informal so you order at the bar. The staff were efficient and friendly though, and teased us about completing the meal without getting messy splashes on our clothes!


 With three bottles of wine and some water, the bill came to £170 without service – excellent value.  Well worth seeking out, away from the main drag.