Soho Japanese

We’re meeting up with M&G and they wanted to go to a Japanese restaurant, as they will be off to Japan soon.  We’re pleased with this idea as many people reject Japanese places as being all about raw fish, when usually there is plenty of other choice too, so we don’t often find people to try them with.

M finds a place in Old Compton St called Shack-Fuyu, which turns out to be part of the Bone Daddies group. We’d been before to a Bone Daddies ramen bar in Peter St after B had seen the head chef on TV. That had been good (we had salmon tartare, soft-shell crab; Thai green chicken curry ramen)  but a bit café-like and rushed.  Shack-Fuyu is more stylish, with booths for 6 as well as tables for two.

They have an extensive range of saké, including sparkling ones which I’d never heard of before, but we stick with the wine – Le Versant viognier from France at £28.  When G arrives he chooses an Asahi beer.  A very friendly waitress, Teresa,  (Italian, Spanish? Certainly not Japanese) introduces herself to us as our dedicated waitress – which since she’s the only one there is not surprising.  But it does make it easier to question her about the menu.

It’s a “concept” again. It’s not entirely clear which dishes are for sharing and which not. The beef hot stone rice comes recommended.   So we choose that along with others chosen by price – 4 cheaper ones, 3 more expensive plus a burnt cauliflower (that’s how it’s billed) as a token vegetable.  We ask to have the cheaper ones first, but in the end they come as and when.

First to arrive is the raw tuna tacos. There are just two, but they divide up easily enough. The prawn tempura are brilliant – such a light batter and a spicy mayo on the side – and the waygu beef tataki with a ginger soy dressing amazing,  Crispy squid arrive in a huge bowl – good, though they need the mayo from the prawns to perk them up a bit.

Next up is the Iberico pork “pluma” with spring onions (loads, finely chopped) which is also good, the burnt cauliflower, with jalapenos and in a sesame sauce, which was probably the only disappointing dish, and duck gyoza. The five gyoza are presented in a a unique way – they claim nowhere else in London does this – linked together by a light crispy topping.  Finally the beef hot stone rice – good and filling but not as special as some of the other dishes.

I’m still a little peckish so G and I tuck into a pork cheek skewer and seabass ceviche as well.  Both of these excel too.

We’ve had three bottles of wine and G had a second pint. With service that takes the bill to £212, excellent value for all the tasty dishes. 

As we come out we see there is a big queue for the Japanese restaurant next door. Young people obviously! Maybe that’s cheaper, but I think it would struggle to beat Shack-Fuyu for flavour.