Regular readers will know how taken we are with our local French Restaurant, The French Table. We'd just managed to squeeze in a visit before lockdown in November. They had been offering take-aways, but in limited numbers so we weren't able to get anything arranged over Christmas. So as soon as they opened up again this month, I rushed to book us one.
The take-away is their 5-course tasting menu at £42 a head. No delivery, pick it up between 4pm and 5pm, full re-heating instructions included. Extra bread and petit fours included (as they would be in the restaurant). It's all very attractively packaged too, numbered so that courses are clearly identifiable.
The advantage of the take-away is that we can set our own pace. We start with the amuse bouche around 6pm, and don't finish the dessert until 9pm. The amuse is mushroom and chestnut velouté, which arrives in pyramid-shaped pots, and just needs 90 seconds in the microwave. It's lovely, with truffle oil glistening on top, and plenty of chunky pieces of chestnut.
The first course is terrine of duck, foie gras, and prunes, which comes with fruit and nut bread for toasting. The green peppercorns give it a fairly hot sensation, and the various elements of the terrine are clearly visible. Full marks, a cut above the usual. .
This is followed by a cold Devon crab roll with leek fondue and samphire, supported by a mango puree and soy dressing. Simply delicious, the roll element being very light, just acting as a vehicle to hold the crab and leek together, and all the other flavours bright and sharp.
The fish course was, typically, hake as it nearly always is when we've eaten in. It comes with tagliatelle and something called "forkweed", which Wikipedia tells me is algae, and needs just 5 minutes in the oven. It's the least successful of the courses, being rather salty, though the fish itself is firm.
The meat course is venison, served sliced, slightly pink with a parsnip purée and a black peppercorn sauce. 8 minutes in the oven. It's served with something called potato darphin, which we'd also never heard of, a sort of French waffle-shaped hash brown, and some pickled vegetables. It all works together perfectly, the venison itself so tender and tasty.
Dessert is coconut and white chocolate slice with grapefruit. The balance of sweet and acid is very fresh, and not at all heavy.
We drank Mussel Pot Reserve SB with the early courses and Waxed Bat Cab Sauv led blend with the venison - both from Sunday Times.
Throughout the distinct flavours have been super, and it has been a very enjoyable meal. I won't comment on the service and ambience (!) - but it did work well as a meal at home.
