Some recent visits

 ESHER TAPAS BAR

We get the bus into Esher to visit Don Luis, a fairly new tapas bar. We have been there once before, but that was very early days. When we arrive at 2pm there is only one other table occupied. so we get a nice table by the window.

Wines are not cheap, so we go for the house white, Espeto Blanco, at £24.  As well as tapas, they do paella and steaks. We choose the paella mixta, but since this will take a while, precede it with a few tapas - sourdough with a really sharp ali-oli, squid tentacles, hot and crispy and a quite light chorizo tortilla. All very acceptable. The paella when it comes is a huge portion, mainly featuring chicken and mussels, though there are a couple of large prawns and a surprising amount of squid.  We fail to get through it, but they happily bring a pot for us to transfer the remains. 

Very chatty waiter - they're not busy. With second bottle this comes to £124 (including 12.5%). Worth a visit.

WARWICK

We have decided to break our journey to Wirral with the night in Warwick. We're staying at the Warwick Arms which is nice enough but nothing special.  It is central though, so it's easy for us to walk into the market square for a late lunch. We sit outside in the sun at the Tilted Wig. The menu looks interesting and we choose between the fish board or prawns, squid and ham croquettes, finally going for the latter.

I go in to order to find they don't have any more ham croquettes, so revert to the fish platter at £17. The Chilean SB is £17 too. We notice dishes coming out to other tables are quite large, and indeed our platter doesn't disappoint. There's chilli and garlic prawns, a pile of squid, a big dish full of whitebait, and several slices of smoked salmon.  These are accompanied by an interesting salad and several slices of attractive herby bread (which we don't touch as we're going out to dinner).  Very good value indeed.

I have booked us into 7 Square for dinner. We wander by to check on location and see it's attached to a wine bar - looks quite nice. We are shown in to a rather dull looking back room, with cheap looking tables. There's some interesting trompe d'oeil wall painting, merging into actual pictures. 

Looking at the menu, I wonder why on earth I'd booked here. It's a very limited choice of heavy-sauced French dishes. We choose a Muscat Viognier at £24, which is fine. B decides against a starter, and I have the goat's cheese bruschetta.  This is very good, with peppers, and excellent bread.

For main B has duck a l'orange. There are several slices of pink duck, but the sauce is too much. I order my rump steak medium-rare. It's a big thick chunk of steak, too tough to get through. So I ask for it to be cooked more, which does make it more tolerable, but again it is drenched in sauce - peppercorn.  Overall a disappointing experience for £100. 

BURNT TRUFFLE

We've been to the Burnt Truffle in Heswall before. It's a place for special occasions, so for this first meeting up with G&S since 2019 is a good place to go. 

It's quite a short menu, so it turns out that the girls order the same things, and G and I also have the same. 

Starters were a gorgeous terrine.

And a slightly more ordinary sea trout.

Mains were cod loin - excellent - and an equally good large portion of roast pork

Service is friendly and slick without being intrusive.  Total bill (several bottles of Viognier at £27) comes to a substantial £300 for 4, including tips, but it does feel like it was well worth it. 

PARKGATE

Lunch at The Ship in Parkgate is a last-minute decision. We'd gone in for a drink and to look at its refurbishment - including a lovely upstairs terrace.

Bur unfortunately it is a bit too chilly to sit up there. Instead we have a nice table in the window downstairs.  After last night's dinner we only want snacks so choose from the starters menu - potted salmon with sauce gribiche, and five spiced wild mushroom and water chestnut pancakes. Both VG. G&S have wild boar sausage roll and haddock arancini. 

French restaurant in Richmond

 We've been to Chez Lindsay with S&S a couple of times before, but this is our first  visit since before the pandemic.  When we'd booked online there was plenty of choice of dining times, but when we arrive at 1.45pm all the other tables were taken.  There's a nice warm feel, and a definite French atmosphere. Our table is in the middle of the restaurant, but that's fine as there aren't really any views from the windows. They still have the socially distancing screens around the tables, but this isn't an issue either.

We order the Viognier (£26) and ask for some water. The wine arrives promptly, but we have to ask three times for the water.  Very French waiting staff. 

One of the reasons for coming back is that S and B like the crab as a starter. This time everyone but for me orders it. They are seriously sizeable beasts, the body about as big as your hand. Nutcrackers and other tools provided.  All tasty as you'd expect, requiring time and concentration to get all the meat out. I have the fish soup, complete with croutons, rouille and cheese. This is warming and comforting, with a good peppery undertone.

S&B both have sea bass (bar) as main course, having chosen it filleted rather than on the bone. This comes with salad and new potatoes. Very nicely cooked. S2 has the calves liver and bacon with mash and seems very pleased with that. I've pushed the boat out and ordered Tournedos Rossini, the most expensive thing on the menu at £35. I've gone with the waiter's recommendation of "medium-rare", but when it comes I think it should have been more rare.  Still, it is a lovely piece of steak with a (politically incorrect, I know) good piece of foie gras, on toast (not really a crouton as advertised) and a rich but not cloying red wine sauce. Plus good chips. And a bottle of Cahors Malbec (£28) to go with it. We also have some spinach and tomato and onion salad to go with the mains.

We're all quite full, but tradition demands we order a crepes Suzettes to finish. Attractively presented, with flaming brandy poured over it at the table, it is a dramatic and tasty finale. 

The menu also covers lots of galettes and cidres so you don't have to go for the full meal.

The room is nothing special, but the sounds of everyone enjoying themselves and French exchanges between the waiters give a nice atmosphere, untroubled by music as far as I recall. With a second bottle of Viognier and two coffees, the bill comes to just shy of £300 for the 4 of us. Not cheap, and not up with Chez Bruce or TFT, but definitely a fair price for what we had. 

COMPARING OUR TWO FAVOURITE FRENCH RESTAURANTS

 It’s sometimes difficult to compare places when there is a gap in time between visits,  but by chance we have booked into two of our favourite restaurants – Chez Bruce in Wandsworth Common and The French Table, locally here in Surbiton – so this a good opportunity. Both are very good so I’m looking at some fine distinctions here. Chez Bruce has a Michelin star; TFT regularly features in Opentable’s top 10 restaurants in London.

There are 6 of us booked in for Chez Bruce and 4 of us arrive together.  We’re shown the light, airy room to our “usual” table in a corner – out of the way but not isolated. The welcome is warm and friendly.  The signature parmesan biscuits arrive in little pots that are topped up as we get through them waiting for the others to arrive.  The selection of breads is a little ordinary.  The wine list is huge, but rapidly goes off the scale.  We order the Chilean Viognier from Tabali at £36, but are told as it arrives that this is the only bottle they have.  M has a G&T (good choice of gins) and G decides on a bottle of Wimbledon IPA.   G looks for a suitable red, but the equivalent Tabali Carmenere is £54, so he decides to stick to the beer. By the time the others arrive, we are selecting our next white – the cheapest other Viognier (French) is over £40, so we go for the South African Sauvignon Blanc – Southern Right – at £33.

At TFT (as it also calls itself) it’s just the 2 of us for our wedding anniversary. I’d told them about that when booking and when we arrive we find a personalised menu with “Happy Anniversary”. The table is covered in celebratory sprinkles, though bizarrely these say Happy Birthday instead! We have a table fairly near the window which is nice (the room is long and narrow, and some tables a bit squished in). TFT run a boulangerie/patisserie, The French Tarte, next door, so the bread is always good – I choose the walnut  but the chorizo bread is usually excellent.  We start with a kir royale each, while choosing our usual Pays D’Oc Viognier (£28) from the more modest (in both senses) wine list. 

The Chez Bruce set lunch offers a choice of at least 6 dishes for each course; at TFT we also choose the 3-course set lunch, rather than the 5-course tasting menu, but that has only 4 or 5 options per course.

For starters at Chez Bruce, I have the spiced fish samosa and B the tuna aioli wrap.  The samosa pastry is very crisp and the fish does have a good spicy kick. It comes with mussels -  far more than I was expecting - in a good broth with bok choi and coriander.  B is impressed with her tuna wrap dish, which also has slices of lightly grilled tuna steak. Others chose miso-glazed aubergine (very Instagrammable), the “special” lobster and scallop ravioli in a  bisque sauce, and fish soup with rouille. All plates cleared, the starters were voted a hit all round.

Over at TFT, there is also a “special” starter not on the menu (there generally is) – croustillade of pork, described to us as like a spring roll – which I decide to have.  Again the pastry is crisp and the pork roll comes sitting on a pool of creamed lentils. The pork is very flavourful, but by the end the dish has seemed a little salty.  B has the terrine: rabbit, ham hock, black pudding and pistachio – one of their regular dishes.  That’s good as usual, accompanied by pickled carrot.

Main courses at Chez Bruce were fillet of sea bream with brown shrimps for me and two of the others, roast cod with truffle mash for B, pig’s cheek for C and chicken breast with gnocchi and trompettes for G.   The sea bream was nicely cooked, but the shrimps came in a romescu sauce that rather swamped the dish. The green beans were perfectly done as you’d expect, and the samphire deep fried and fun. B’s cod came with chanterelles and leeks and was declared to be good. G’s chicken was interesting too.

At TFT, we both opted for cod, as the duck and pork belly options sounded rather heavy. The fish was roasted with a nice brown top, and accompanied by a lobster and sundried tomato risotto in a veloute, with some broccoli.  I thought the risotto was nice, but B thought it was a bit over-powering for the cod.

My dessert choice at Chez Bruce is always crème brulée. They serve it in a wide dish, quite thinly spread, so you get a high ratio of brulée to crème.  Also the vanilla seeds in it are lovely. B had the mango and lime sorbet, and raved over how sharp it was.  The spiced pineapple dish was a hit too.

TFT told us one of the dessert options was “off”, another was cheese, so we chose the other two. But then apparently they did in fact have one of the walnut and coffee tart, so B had that and I had the dark chocolate croquant. Both came served on plates with “Happy Anniversary” written in choclate.  Although the walnut tart came with dulce de leche, chocolate granache and chocolate ice cream, it wasn’t as terribly sweet as that sounds. But for a brilliant demonstration of their patisserie skills, my dessert outshone everything. It was a long slice with chocolate sides, piped Chantilly on top with pine-nut and pumpkin seed brittle.  The chocolate was so intense, the topping smooth and crunchy at the same time. It came with a dollop of ice cream sitting on dark red shreds – spicy! Googling afterwards I found that this Piment d’Espelette is a chilli from the French Basque region, so prized that it has its own AOC registration.  The dark chocolate and the spice was an amazing combination – the best dessert I have had in many years.

With 5 bottles of wine, 3 beers (£8 each), G&T, water and a couple of coffees, Chez Bruce cost £100 a head, the lunch being £50 a head. The French Table was £87 a head, including 2 bottles of wine and the kir royale  - set lunch £35. Both good value given the quality.

How to choose between them?  The French Table has the advantage of being just a few minutes’ walk from us; Wandsworth Common doesn’t have very frequent trains. Although TFT staff were pleasant  and they made a special effort for us, they were very busy, perhaps under-staffed; at Chez Bruce they were more relaxed, and M. Bruce put in an appearance as well.  Chez Bruce is lighter and airier too.   The menu there was more varied and more interesting than TFT (though the latter does have a tasting menu option), and dishes generally scored slightly higher – except for my dessert.  

Take-away from TFT

 Regular readers will know how taken we are with our local French Restaurant, The French Table.  We'd just managed to squeeze in a visit before lockdown in November.  They had been offering take-aways, but in limited numbers so we weren't able to get anything arranged over Christmas. So as soon as they opened up again this month, I rushed to book us one.

The take-away is their 5-course tasting menu at £42 a head. No delivery, pick it up between 4pm and 5pm, full re-heating instructions included.  Extra bread and petit fours included (as they would be in the restaurant).  It's all very attractively packaged too,  numbered so that courses are clearly identifiable.

The advantage of the take-away is that we can set our own pace. We start with the amuse bouche around 6pm, and don't finish the dessert until 9pm. The amuse is mushroom and chestnut velouté, which arrives in pyramid-shaped pots, and just needs 90 seconds in the microwave. It's lovely, with truffle oil glistening on top, and plenty of chunky pieces of chestnut. 

The first course is terrine of duck, foie gras, and prunes, which comes with fruit and nut bread for toasting.  The green peppercorns give it a fairly hot sensation, and the various elements of the terrine are clearly visible. Full marks, a cut above the usual. .

This is followed by a cold Devon crab roll with leek fondue and samphire, supported by a mango puree and soy dressing. Simply delicious, the roll element being very light, just acting as a vehicle to hold the crab and leek together, and all the other flavours bright and sharp. 

The fish course was, typically, hake as it nearly always is when we've eaten in. It comes with tagliatelle and something called "forkweed", which Wikipedia tells me is algae, and needs just 5 minutes in the oven.  It's the least successful of the courses, being rather salty, though the fish itself is firm. 

The meat course is venison, served sliced, slightly pink with a parsnip purée and a black peppercorn sauce. 8 minutes in the oven. It's served with something called potato darphin, which we'd also never heard of, a sort of French waffle-shaped hash brown, and some pickled vegetables. It all works together perfectly, the venison itself so tender and tasty. 

Dessert is coconut and white chocolate slice with grapefruit.  The balance of sweet and acid is very fresh, and not at all heavy.

We drank Mussel Pot Reserve SB with the early courses and Waxed Bat Cab Sauv led blend with the venison - both from Sunday Times. 

Throughout the distinct flavours have been super, and it has been a very enjoyable meal. I won't comment on the service and ambience (!) - but it did work well as a meal at home.

Pre-lockdown return to TFT

 We had booked into The French Table later in the month for our anniversary, but with the news of the lockdown I rushed to see if we could get in ahead of time. Normally they are closed on Tuesdays, but when I rang they said that exceptionally they would be open, so gleefully I booked us in.

After the usual temperature checks we were shown in to our table. It was pretty busy again, with the upstairs room being used too - others must have had the same sort of idea.  We had suspicions that not all the other tables were from one household, but one can't be sure.  We ordered our usual Viognier at £28 and settled down to choose between the 5-course tasting menu or the a la carte.  We've always done the tasting before, as it is not much more expensive, but this time we opted not to.

That meant I could choose the special starter - a marmite of mussels and cod, with broccoli and celery under a puff pastry top. It looked very impressive - bigger than I expected with beautifully browned pastry. Inside the contents were swimming in a delicious yellow (saffron?) sauce - plentiful and tasty. B chose the crispy tempura prawns and plaice, which was very good - large prawns, plaice full of flavour.  We'd turned down the roasted hispi cabbage with soya and ginger dressing, but it appeared at the table next us, looking very impressive - and collapsing dramatically when attacked. 

After some discussion about the difference between the terrine of rabbit, ham hock and foie gras on the a la carte and the ballotine of the same things on the tasting menu (and why they had different recommended wines), we turned to our mains.  After some dithering, B had chosen the pork belly with salsify, hazelnuts and hazelnut puree. The meat was topped with an intricate and delicate pommes dauphine web, and there was also a pork croquette to accompany it.  She thought it was very good, though the hazelnut puree was a bit redundant.  

I'd gone for the roast lamb, which turned out to be three round slices, glazed with rosemary sauce. It came with spatzle (German egg noodles - I had to look that up), some cavelo nero and a few rather chewy strands of greenery.  Both dishes score very high marks again.  There had been an option of a side order of vegetables which we had declined - at other tables they looked like huge portions. 

I was pretty full, but B pressed on to order a mille-feuille with poached figs and pistachio ice cream. The cream with the mille-feuille was infused with Earl Grey, and the three layers of pastry very crisp and flavourful.

Service was a bit less chatty this time - they were busy and the PPE doesn't make for intimacy. We discussed whether a straight 3-courses was a better option than the tasting (it didn't come with an amuse bouche), and decided there wasn't much to choose between them. Larger portions make the a la carte a more recognisable lunch, but the tastings have always been well judged in their portion sizes too. With 12.5% service and a second bottle of wine, the bill was £136. Not cheap, but we won't be eating out for the next month (at least) so well worth doing.  

Back to our favourite French place

We have a second voucher to use at The French Table, so booked a table – though it had to be in three weeks’ time. Arriving at 1.30pm we are shown to the last available table (downstairs, at least, as they now use the upstairs room for ordinary bookings to make up for social distancing) – clearly it remains a very popular local venue.

We order kir, and then decide which menu to go for – 2-course, 3-course or the £35 5-course tasting. There’s not a lot of different choices on the smaller menus, and if you added vegetables or potatoes the 3-course actually costs more than the tasting, so we go for the latter.  We don’t go for the matching wines at £25 a head though.

 Very tasty, warmed bread comes with our bottle of French Viognier (£28 a bottle), and quite promptly the amuse bouche arrives. This is cucumber gazpacho with pickled strawberry.  Very fresh and light, with truffle oil and just a few pieces of crunchy cucumber to give it a bit of a bite. Served in very attractive sloping bowls.

 The first of the five courses is melon with goats cheese in breadcrumbs and crispy Bayonne ham. It also comes with “white balsamic vinegar ice cream”.  It’s a slightly weird combination, the cheese and ham contrasting with the sweeter melon and ice cream – more like two dishes mixed up together.

 This is followed by a terrine of rabbit and ham hock, apparently with foie gras, though this is not readily identifiable. It’s a very good textured dish, supported by fruit and walnut toast.  The fish dish is hake, with olive oil mash, mushrooms, peas and a lobster sauce. Every item is excellent, and even B finishes her mash. The lobster sauce lifts everything without being too heavy.  The fish is a little too salty though.

 The meat course is pork – a small piece of belly in a rich port sauce, and a pulled pork parcel in filo pastry.  This is quite heavy and we are both now struggling to get through everything. This too is quite salty.

 The dessert is much the same as last time - chocolate “moelleux” with blackberries and blackberry ice cream, though this time without the Crunchie honeycomb. Delicious.

 Very friendly and efficient service again, though still a little thrown by the new routines – we’re more than happy to pour our own wine, but they seemed very pained to let us do it! The clientele is far from diverse – only one table seemed younger than us, all white and prosperous looking!  The bill does mount up, with a second bottle of wine and including the kir, water and 12.5% service, it came to £160. But even though I had a few more criticisms this time, it is an excellent and enjoyable lunch and we'll no doubt be back for a special occasion. 

 

 

Chompers of Surbiton opens for business!

Now we have completed our move to Surbiton (Long Ditton, actually), it’s been suggested by a couple of readers that I should rename the blog. So welcome to the first posting on Chompers of Surbiton!

Since restrictions on pubs and restaurants were lifted, we’ve managed two lunches out, and discovered the pleasures of sitting in the sunshine outside our local, the City Arms, watching the wildlife in the marina – heron, great crested grebe, as well as more common birds, and some huge fish.

Our first lunch was back to Hart’s Boatyard.  They had arranged a one-way system, with hand sanitizer at the door. Tables were well spaced out, and the upstairs area out of action, so the number of people they could seat was much reduced.  Most tables were occupied, but we had asked for one overlooking the river, so we had a very nice view, though it was a little darker downstairs than the at upstairs tables we’d had before.

Their menu was reduced, but still there was an interesting range.  We ordered tempura squid and crab arancini to start, and a bottle of Sunlight Sauvignon Blanc. Thankfully, the waitress pointed out to us that the Sunlight was low alcohol, so we went for Tokumara New Zealand SB instead.

We seemed to wait quite a while for our food, and when it came, they brought the main courses, rather than the starters. They took these away, and the starters appeared soon after.  The squid was cooked nicely, but the batter was a little dull, with no sign of the Szechuan peppercorns. But the chilli and red pepper in the arancini made up for that with quite a good kick in a full flavoured ball.

We ordered a second bottle to go with the mains, which arrived after a sufficient pause to make one think they had been re-cooked. B had more crab in her linguine, with king prawns and chorizo. The chilli in this was prominent too, though in identifiable pieces you could avoid if you wished. I had chicken Milanese with fries with some nice garnish of parmesan, rocket, pine nuts and aioli.

We passed on desserts, feeling full on our first meal out in months.  With service – friendly, recovering well from the mistake – and the two bottles, this came to £108, good value for some interesting food.

 

When restaurants were allowed to open on 6^th July, we tried to book for lunch at The French Table – but the first day we could get was 22^nd.  That was just about a month after we moved in, so it seemed a suitable date.  Our previous visit had been back in October when we had been very impressed, and we had twice been thwarted – on my birthday when no trains were running, and on the day we completed on the house, when lockdown started. We had bought a couple of gift vouchers during lockdown to help with cashflow and hoping that they would survive. So we were very much looking forward to it – and we were not disappointed.

We arrived a fraction after our 1.30pm booking time to find a waitress at the door expecting us. Stories about “no-shows” at restaurants since they have re-opened are shocking, so perhaps they were concerned.  Welcomed with hand sanitizer and a forehead temperature check, we were then shown into the dining room. They had taken out some tables, but it was still pretty full. We were shown to a lovely table at the back, with the sunlight beaming in from the skylights.

We’d pretty much gone expecting to order the 5-course tasting menu, and looking at it decided to stay with that decision. The lead waitress described their special starter – raw salmon with kimchi – which sounded great, but we still stuck to our guns.

As we ordered the lunch, we also had a kir each, lighter than many, maybe with strawberries rather than framboise. We also opted out of the wine pairing options, and instead chose the Viognier from Pays d’Oc, at £28.  They do have a good range of wines by the glass or 500ml carafe.

Our waitress was struggling a bit with the new rules - delivering cutlery in a basket rather than laying it out, not topping up our wine - but they didn’t bother us.  Home-made bread included cheese, sun-dried tomato and olive.

First up was an extra amuse bouche, strawberry gazpacho.  With half a strawberry floating in it, this was a delicious rich, peppery soup, served in an attractively shaped little bowl. First designated course was scallops with a chorizo crust. This comes served in a dish surrounded by seaweed, which we are sternly warned not to eat – a bit pointless really. But the chorizo gives a really lovely boost to the perfectly cooked scallops.

The second starter is a terrine of duck and ham hock. This came with a sharp piccalilli and lovely walnut bread. Good but perhaps not that unusual.

Fish course is hake, with tomatoes and a chilli pesto.  The balance between the fish and the sauce is excellent, the fish skin being really crispy.  Obviously, in the tasting menu the portion of fish is fairly small, but it’s plenty to get the flavour.

The meat course was guinea fowl – roast breast, and confit leg in a raviole. The contrast between to the two parts of the bird is so interesting.  It comes served on a bed of pearl barley risotto and wild mushrooms in madeira sauce, which is probably the low point of the meal. Although the flavours are rich, the overall effect is rather cloying and salty. Actually, the hake had been pretty salty too.

Finally dessert was chocolate “moelleux” with blackberries, blackberry ice-cream and honeycomb crust (”Crunchie” without the chocolate). The chocolate aroma hit you immediately, before you even touched it. On contact with the spoon, it broke to reveal flowing molten chocolate. Blackberries provided a tart contrast. Lovely.

The full restaurant has buzzed with the contented murmur of comfortably fed diners. Admittedly it was generally a narrow demographic, though the table next us was a family of five.  Background music included Miles Davis, but was very low and unobtrusive. The various waitresses were all charming and friendly, only getting irritated with a walk-in customer who wanted to book a table but didn’t know what day for!  M. Patron and M. Patronne were in evidence, the latter chatting to us at the end – the restaurant had been pretty full since re-opening and not suffered from “no-shows”.

Admittedly the bill at £159 (including a second bottle and 12.5% service) was not cheap.  A place for celebrations and special events rather than a weekly regime, but somewhere wonderful to have within walking distance.

5 stars in Surbiton

We’re off to Surbiton looking at houses. After wandering around for a while we fetch up at the Queen’s Promenade by the river, and then pop into Hart’s Boatyard for a drink. The menu here looks quite interesting, but we are booked into The French Table, so we just have a glass of wine.

Our table is booked for 1.30pm, because they couldn’t offer us anything earlier, and when we arrive the place is packed. Maybe it’s because it is a Saturday, though we couldn’t book a table at all on Friday. They must be doing something right.

We look at the menus - £23.50 for two courses, £28.50 for 3.  We normally discount the tasting menu, but as it is just £32 for 5 courses and it looks very interesting we decide to plump for it. We also order a bottle of Sicilian Grillo at £23, rather than go for the paired wines, which would have been £23 each.

The wine comes at once, closely followed by an amuse bouche of deep-fried eel on spiced pumpkin. Quite fishy, but very good.  The first of the 5 courses arrives soon after – scallops in a shell, topped with chorizo crust, with cauliflower and seaweed chutney. This is amazing. The crust is crumbly with a kick, the scallops (2) just right and the seaweed a novel taste. Maybe you could argue that the crust overpowered the scallops, but that would be being picky.

 The second course is a change from that advertised – we had been warned in advance.  Described as a “ballotine” of foie gras, it was a round slice of paté wrapped in crushed mushrooms, and supported by roast fig and piccalilli, with a streak of port sauce. This replaced a rabbit terrine with foie gras and ham hock, which may have had more interesting textures, but was more than acceptable.

 We’re relaxing into the atmosphere now, confident that the coming dishes will also be tasty. There’s a good satisfied buzz around the busy room and, despite the table being quite close together, no overly loud guests.  There is some background music, but playing so softly as to be hard to identify.

 Next up is hake on coco beans (nope, me neither) with crispy fried samphire and a lobster sauce. The sauce smells gorgeous, the hake is nicely judged with a slightly crispy top and the samphire really fun. It’s not a big portion, as you might expect in a tasting menu, but very good indeed.

 We order another bottle, and the friendly waitress stops for a little chat, asking whether we’d been before. Apparently they have been going for 18 years, and you can tell why. The owner Eric Guignard still runs the kitchen and has resisted opening up other branches.

 Our conversation is cut short when the beef course arrives.  Three pieces of medium rare beef come with some creamy, cheese and garlic  mash (pomme aligot), girolles and a madeira sauce. The beef is simply excellent, tender and so full of flavour.

 Desserts arrive at the table to one side of us, one of them accompanied with a candle, and  “Happy Birthday, Dean” piped in chocolate around the rim of the plate.  Later we see similar plates arrive at other tables – it’s certainly a good place for a celebration – and the table on our other side pays partially with a £50 gift voucher, a lovely gift I would imagine.

 Our final course is chocolate soufflé with vanilla parfait (you could order an extra course of cheese for £12, but we don’t do that).  Normally I’m not that bothered with chocolate desserts, but this is stunning. The soufflé has a lovely crust and a melting interior; the parfait is covered in nutty chocolate. Nothing to fault at all – parfait indeed.

 Although outside the restaurant had looked very attractive, surrounded in greenery, inside it is much more restrained. The décor is a pale grey, with a number of fairly unremarkable pictures, and basically it is simply a long rectangular room. The back of the restaurant is made lighter by skylights, and the bar doesn’t intrude. So you don’t go for the decoration – but with food this good, you don’t need any distraction.

 With a bottle of sparkling water (!) and service, the bill is £128. It has been one of the top meals of our year, up with Chez Bruce, our favourite.  It regularly features in OpenTable’s list of top 10 London restaurants, and in their “best service” listings.  We’d highly recommend it, and it certainly helped B become happier with the idea of moving to Surbiton!

February round-up

India Dining

It’s Valentine’s Day so of course we take our neighbour out for dinner.  We get a taxi over to Warlingham (about 20 mins), though parking is difficult and we have to jump out rapidly.  Naturally the place is festooned with red balloons, but we are offered a table where we can easily move them aside.


We’d heard of it some time ago as a place run by a chef who used to work at the Cinnamon Club. K&I next door had been before and liked it too, so we were definitely looking forward to it.
It’s quite busy, so it is hard to track down a specific server, but we get our wine (the house Merlot at £17.95) quickly enough. There are some more interesting/expensive wines on the list, but it’s not unreasonable.


There is a special Valentine’s Day 4-course menu on offer, but we decide to go a la carte, which they are OK with. We get some poppadums (with nice chutneys), then order. K passes on a starter, so we share the chilli squid (deep-fried, with a good hit of chilli) and the yellow fin tuna between the three of us. The tuna comes as slices of seared tuna, along with a few pieces of tuna tartar – the seared tuna is good, but I’m less enamoured with the tartar.
For main course, K goes with the mixed tandoori grill – chicken, lamb, prawn – with a stuffed paratha. She says that is very good. B orders the Goan prawns (or “Gowan” as the menu has it), which are excellent: good prawn flavour, soft but not cotton-wool, and a seriously spicy sauce. I choose “Nihari raan” – lamb shank in yoghurt and spice sauce. This is fine, the sauce is delicious and the meat comes away from the bone easily, but somehow the combination doesn’t really work.  We also order rice, dhal and a garlic spinach dish.


We indulge in a couple of desserts. K chooses the gulab jamun, the sticky milk balls dish, and B the pistachio kulfi. Both good.


Service has been very good despite the busy evening. At one point a senior waiter took mock offence when after asking “didn’t I take your order?”, I reply “no, a young man did!”.
The bill presented was £136 – 10% service, 2 bottles of wine and a couple of cokes. It sounded OK, so I didn’t check it until later. They had forgotten to charge us for the poppadums and starters, but had charged us for an extra side dish and coke – on balance we were ahead! 
Worth the visit if there are enough of you to justify the taxi fare.
 

Chez Lindsay

I’ve reviewed this charming French bistro before, and again we are there with S&S. It may be that is not as much on offer as you’d expect, but we end up ordering just two different starters and two different mains between us. S and B love the whole crab starter, which of course takes an age to eat. S and I go for the smoked duck salad – good, not special.


Unusually we have all gone for galettes as mains – B for the gambas, and the rest of us for the fruits de mer.  We also have a crème brulee and a crepes suzette for dessert.
£244 for the food plus four bottles of Viognier at £25 and some water.  Happy to recommend that.

Red Farm

We’d been looking for a good Chinese centrally so when we hear of this place by Covent Garden we have to give it a try. It’s a tight small space with a long central table and a few others around the side. We get seated at a two-some table in what feels like a cramped place near the bar – nowhere to put coats other than the floor. The place is fairly busy with lively young people so, once we get used to the table, the atmosphere is OK.


It’s tricky to work out what to order from the menu – what is starter or main. Some dishes seem seriously pricey and dim sum are £10 a shot. In the end we go for a selection of starters/dim sum. We choose just 4 to start with.


The “pac man” prawn dumplings are unique – there are four different flavour dumplings plus a “pac man” shaped shrimp/potato fritter.  The individual dumplings are excellent, but pac-man himself a little dull.  The other dim sum is beef dumplings – spicy and slippery. We also have “Dingley Dell” pork belly – soft and full of flavour; and lamb skewers with chilli and cumin.
To be fair the dishes have been a good size and very tasty. We order another portion of the “pac man” a chicken dumplings, with mushroom and a duck gyoza.


Service was very slow to begin with. The head waiter apologised for the delay due to a technical problem – just before we got irritated.  In recompense he provided a tray of three vegetables, which were very tasty and didn’t charge us for the gyoza.


Wine wasn’t cheap either - £29 for a standard Chenin Blanc. The total of £136 (incl 12.5% ) was more than you would expect for an average Chinese dim sum – but then it was definitely well above average.  OK for small groups – not really a party destination.

Busaba, KIngston

We’ve been to this Thai restaurant on the river in Kingston before – in the summer when you could sit outside. Despite this remarkable February weather, this time we are inside in a very busy space.  We are offered one table close to a group of little kids, so decide instead to sit between two other tables, both of which were finishing up anyway.


Although the restaurant is busy, the service is good enough to get a wine order (Chenin Blanc at £22) in quickly, along with some Thai prawn crackers – so much better than the Chinese ones.
We share a Thai calamari to start – their “signature” dish with ginger and green peppercorns. It is remarkable, nothing like I’ve had before. The calamari is cooked just short of rubbery (no batter), and the sauce a mouthful of flavour. The peppercorns are on little stalks, infusing the whole thing. Top marks.


There are several main courses that sound very interesting, but in the end we go with chilli prawns and tamarind duck (which comes with rice) plus a “sweet and sour” cucumber salad.  The prawns have a serious kick and good flavour. The duck (which requires proper sharp knives to deal with) is also an impressive dish.  The only low note is the salad, which has far more lettuce and leaves and not enough cucumber for our taste.


With the usual 12.5% service (pretty much deserved) and a second bottle of wine, the bill comes to £97 – I’m pleased with that, it’s very good value.

Three in May

As we are going to the Sunday Times Vintage Wine Festival at Old Billingsgate, I do some research in advance on places to eat afterwards.  We now have the Gourmet card which gives money off in various places (mainly the chains), so I look at what is nearby on their list, and come up with Ember in Pudding Lane.

We arrive a little ahead of or 3pm booking, and descend into the basement bar/restaurant.  It’s an odd style – they claim it echoes the Great Fire! – more sleazy than swanky. There are still quite a few people in finishing off lunch (well, it was Friday) -  mainly City types. In a small alcove there is a group of four or five – definitely a space for assignations. At another table, three out of four men are in pink shirts and contrasting ties – the other (the mark?) in a dark blue suit. 

The menu is “East Asian fusion”.  Quite a substantial range.   The wine list is a little scary, with nothing under £30 – we go for the Colombard-Sauvignon from Horgelus in Côte de Gascogne at £31.  After over 50 tastings, one bottle is going to be enough!!

We start with the sesame squid with a sweet paprika mayonnaise – this is an excellently cooked dish, with just enough batter and enough bite. With that we have a prawn and coconut ceviche, with lemongrass and a good chilli hit, and a chorizo and prawn gyoza. Following up, there’s an Indonesian beef rendang, which is rich and spicy as it should be. And a luscious Waygu Koji (mushroom) that is just melt in your mouth.  Plus some jasmine rice.

The service is fine – unobtrusive and efficient – without being friendly.  Our 50%-off food offer saves us £29, so the total (with 12.5% service) comes to £75. We may not have had our most sensitive palettes at work (!), but that seemed like very good value for the interesting food and venue. At full price, we might have thought differently.

 

Meeting up with M&G, and C&G, we’re off to Duck and Rice in Berwick Street, right by the market. The restaurant is up a tight spiral staircase (there’s a bar downstairs), and we are seated right at the back – it’s a little cramped and dark.

We order some wine and sparkling water – a Sauvignon from Touraine at £30 and an Argentinian Malbec (La Colonia) at £32.  The waitress is a little dippy – she pours the wine as if she has never done it before, with the smallest amount for tasting you can imagine. She’s even nervous about pouring the water, having brought a bottle of still first.

We decide to order starters first, and then order mains once we’ve had those – that seems to be a challenging concept for our hostess.  There’s a “monthly specials” list, as well as the standards, but this seems to have passed her by – she gets very confused about anything we order off that.  Luckily, most dishes come with three portions, so cutting these in half means everyone gets a taste of everything.

First to arrive, after the edamame beans, are the venison puffs and the pan-fried pork gyoza. The puffs, though small, are delicious. The gyoza come with a frilly fried surround, but are a little gooey, they could have been fried a bit more. The crispy prawn rolls, looking like Shredded Wheat, come with a tasty mayonnaise and the salt&pepper squid with a chilli dip – both very good. Then there are the jasmine tea-soaked rib bau (bun) – the rib is nice, but the bun a bit too much – and a serviceable vegetable spring roll.

Returning to the menu, we order main dishes, again to share. Duck and Rice had to be one. M fancied kimchi pork, as she’d never tried it. B went for wasabi prawn, G2 kung po chicken and I ordered the chicken claypot but that was “off”, so ended up with the crispy shredded beef.  G1 thought that was enough protein so ordered Gai Lan, an oriental broccoli. We then had a debate about how much rice to order – the kimchi pork came with rice as did the duck and rice (obvs). Dippy suggested that the egg fried rice bowls were small, so we ordered two – we didn’t need that many.

Favourites were the kung po chicken, which had a dense flavour and was quite spicy with caramelised red chillies, followed by the kimchi pork and the wasabi prawns. The duck was OK but the shredded beef was, as so often I think, not that interesting.

In all we had 3 bottles of Sauvignon, plus a couple more glasses and some coffees. Just over £300 for 6 of us was pretty fair.

 

 Down to Lymington to meet up with J&E, S&B. We’re booked into Pebble Beach at Barton-on-Sea, which J and B claim we’d been to before, but I don’t recall at all. It’s a lovely sunny day, and we are glad to sit by the door to the terrace, rather than actually outside in the heat.

Most of the others aren’t drinking much, so it’s down to B and me to get through the Kleine Kalze Chenin Blanc  (£21.50).

E has the set 3-course menu at £24.50: smoked salmon, followed by chicken breast and then ice creams. The rest of us go a la carte. Our choices were king scallops (excellent) and beef carpaccio (fine). Others included Breton fish soup with rouille (deemed to be good), and goat’s cheese curd.

Our mains were lemon sole – a neat portion, nicely done – and stir-fried prawns and monkfish in oyster sauce, which was rather too dominant and salty.  J ordered skate wing with “mussel nage”, which turned out to her disappointment be flakes of skate buried under a mound of mussels and clams in a salty soup. B2’s fish and chips (with extra mushy peas) and S’s mussels were both well-received.

Desserts were a chocolate fondant  (hot and gooey, with honeycomb ice cream, and a cheese selection (at £15.40 a bit pricey).  Afterwards we sit outside on the terrace with splendid views of the sea, the Isle of Wight and the Needles. On such a lovely day, it’s a great place to be. We have some more wine and coffees – though I’ve just noticed they forgot to charge us for those!

The service was friendly and efficient and the atmosphere smart without being stuffy. Total for 6 (two bottles of wine, but excluding the extra wine and coffee) was £224. Despite the skate that is excellent value in such a scenic location. Highly recommended.

December outings

After a wine tasting at Tate Modern, we drift round the corner to our new nearby favourite,  Mar I Terra.  I’ve reviewed it before, but again it did not disappoint.  This time we are there on Friday evening, and it is pretty busy, which gives it a great atmosphere. Staff are friendly and welcoming. We start with a garlic bread (to soak up our wine) and then go for garlic prawns, braised beef Riojana, pork belly, and chick peas with spinach and cumin. There’s plenty of garlic around, and a fair bit of chilli too. The beef comes with piquillo peppers, which also have a good kick. The pork belly has a good portion of crackling and is really very succulent.  The Verdejo at £21 seemed good, but maybe our palettes were a little jaded.  At £63 including service, very reasonable indeed.

The following night we are off to a comedy gig at Union St chapel, with H.  Again we re-visit a favourite, La Petite Auberge, I’ve also reviewed before.  As we are eating before the show, the placed is quite quiet, though there is one larger group in. Service is a bit erratic, with no consistent waiter, and they seem more interested in getting the chairs in than actually bringing any wine! For starters I have the crevettes in garlic, which are more tiger prawns than crevettes, but perfectly fine.  B has bacon and chicken liver terrine – which hasn’t stuck in the memory! – and H moules mariniere.  Mains are stuffed guinea fowl for me (a bit claggy), stuffed chicken breast for H (which she thought a bit dull) and B has the gambas as before.  A couple of bottles of  Pays D’Oc Viognier at £24.50 bring the bill up to £130 including service.  But not as great a success as last time.

To complete an indulgent weekend, we are having our “131” lunch, with T&K, H and J, back from her travels.  After further unsuccessful attempts to book Dishoom again – I think I’m giving up on them for good – we are booked into Salt Yard  in Goodge St.  We are in the downstairs room, with a large, but fortunately fairly restrained, group nearby.  The charming waitress is all smiles and helpful, so we rapidly start in on the Campo Flores Verdejo/SB and a Honoro Vera (£25 and £24 each).  A first round of dishes includes grilled flatbread, sweet and spicy guindillas (big green chillies),  smoked almonds, boquerones (juicy) , padron peppers and caperberries. More substantial dishes follow: crab arancini, chorizo picante with chickpeas, marjoram salami, roast salmon, courgettes flowers and burrata. Also pork rillons (pork belly cubes), polenta with mushrooms and leeks, and paprika chicken, followed by a Spanish cheese selection.  With two bottles each of the white and red, and service this all comes to £270 for 6 people – pretty good I’d say.

The next week we meet S&L at Tiles, after their visit to “Spooky” the spiritualist.  This is a really old favourite, from before we were married. It’s midweek, but still pretty busy so we are downstairs with a couple of Xmas party groups.  The Viognier from Languedoc is £23 a bottle, and very creamy.   Starters include a baked aubergine parcel, cauliflower soup, and tuna tartare (my choice – pretty good).  For mains L and I both have pork medallions, which she is unable to finish – rich tasty, with Lyonaisse potatoes.  S has a chicken breast stuffed with roasted peppers and goats cheese and wrapped in pancetta – again too much for her. And B has the fisherman’s platter: deep-fried squid, prawns, salmon and cod with courgettes chips also too much. So we had quite a doggy basket – the portion of chips was unnecessary, but hot and crisp as they should be. Despite being busy the services has been fine – efficient rather than friendly perhaps.  Three bottles of wine and service take the total to £170

The next Monday I have a work meeting near Smithfields in the afternoon, so I stop off at St Bart’s Brewery for lunch first.  The small plates previously advertised on the website are not available in December, and a number of tables are booked for parties, so I end up in a low “comfy” chair.  Although predictably quiet when I get there at noon, plenty of people are coming in on spec, so it gets quite busy by 12.30.  I order the brisket brioche, which comes with a portion of red cabbage slaw and chipotle gravy with a surprising kick. A tin of good skin-on fries goes well. A couple of glasses of Vermentino help things along. £22 in total.

Next day we are meeting M&P in Sutton for lunch. It’s an ASLEF strike day on Southern, so it has to be a cab, which in the end means we get there early and stop off in the Old Bank for a drink first.  We catch up with our friends as we reach the restaurant – a classic-style Italian called Casa Nostra, one of their old favourites.  As well as an extensive standard menu, there is a good list of blackboard specials, which apparently contain regular dishes.  M&P don’t drink, so I order a bottle of Frascati, and B says she’ll have one too – the cheeky waiter brings both together! M&P both have the crab and avocado salad starter, which looks good, but perhaps has too much dressing on it. B has the garlic king prawns (obvs), which do seem very good, and I have squid ripieni (ie with black pudding and bacon on a bed of spinach), which is excellent – rich, flavoursome with the squid al dente. Filling though.  For main P has the turbot steaks off the specials board, M has sea bass fillets which she asks for with a passata sauce, and B has skate with lemon butter and capers off the specials too. My veal saltimbocca (with sage and parma ham) is excellent, in a good white wine sauce.  All the mains come with a selection of vegetables (aprt from B who opted for salad) which include some good sauté potatoes. Paying for the wine and splitting the food means we end up with £129 for the two of us.  It’s only Sutton and with few pretensions, but that’s still good value for what we had.

Thursday sees us at the M&G organised ex-BT Xmas gathering at the Morgan Arms  in Bow.  There are 18 of us, so we are at three tables, with strict instructions from M for the men to move around between courses.  Surprisingly that works quite well.  We have had to pre-order our food (fair enough), but the placecards have got mine and B’s confused.  She has game terrine to start, while I have confit duck leg (with red cabbage and juniper) which is close to being a full main course. For main, B has sea bass, while I have the venison steak, with sprouts and good roast potatoes. The venison is OK, but a little chewy, and again a large portion, so I fail to finish it.  For dessert I have the chocolate mousse (very runny, but tasty) and B has the trifle, which comes in a smallish glass.  I don’t know how much wine we consumed, but our share of the total came to a very reasonable £130.

As there’s another ASLEF strike on. I can’t get to a meeting on Friday, so we indulge again in a lunch in Purley at Mekan.   There’s a big table laid up for a party, but we manage to get one by the window, a little way away. The group doesn’t arrive till we’re about to leave anyway.  As usual, we have lamb’s liver and spicy sausage to start. And B has her usual Mediterranean prawns in garlic and white wine to follow. After some indecision, I opt for the lamb iskender barbequed lamb with yoghurt and pitta bread. They are out of our usual NZ SB, so instead we have a couple of bottles of Gavi at £23.  The waiter is very stern and unsmiling, but the waitress much more pleasant.  £80 all in.

We’ve no other meals planned before Xmas, though I expect we’ll fit in the tapas bar and a curry some time during the week.  So MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL MY READERS (if there are any!).

Busy couple of weeks

It’s been a busy couple of weeks, with trips to several new places and some old favourites re-visited.  

IMPERIAL CHINA

G&S are down staying with us, so after the compulsory trip to our favourite local Vietnamese, Cat Ba Island, the next day we decide to go to Dishoom  in Upper St Martin’s Lane.   We’d tried to get in before but not been able to face the queue, so we think around 4pm on a Sunday afternoon should be OK.   I go ahead to grab a spot in the queue. As I approach it doesn’t look too bad, but when I ask the chap how long the wait will be, he says an hour! And 30 minutes before we even get inside to wait at the bar!! I don’t think so.

 So we decide on Chinatown for dim sum. Our previous favourite, Harbour City, has been taken over by New Loon Fung, but they too are full, with a half-hour wait. So we go round to Lisle street and into Imperial China.  This is an attractive place, tucked away in a courtyard, approached by a little bridge over a stream, by a waterfall and a pond full of huge koi carp. Chinese lanterns complete the look.

 The dim sum is a fairly standard selection of dumplings and rolls. But they are fresh, spicy and hot.  Service is friendly (for Chinatown!) and efficient. With three bottles of wine it comes to £180 for four.

 

CHEZ BRUCE

Next day the four of us went to Chez Bruce, probably our “go-to” favourite. The set lunch is £32 for 3 courses, which is very good value, though B was not impressed with a £6 supplement for the venison that both she and S had as main. The parmesan crisps were excellent as usual, and the service still very friendly and unstuffy, but we had a surprisingly long wait for our starters. My selection was duck tagliettelle (wonderful!) followed by  sea bream, and then their super vanilla créme brûlée . Wines at £26 for Viognier, £28 for Syrah (both Chilean). Total £287. Afterwards reflected on the fact that normally Michelin-starred places give you an amuse bouche, but apart from the parmesan crisps, there was nothing at Chez Bruce.  Still, it remains up there for us.

 

HOUSE OF Hô

B has booked us, with T&K,  into House of Hô after the Tesco wine tasting at Olympia. It’s only at the last minute we realise that it is not the place in Old Compton St we had been to before (which has now closed), but in Percy Street, Fitzrovia, on the site of Bam Bou, which we used to like.

There is an attractively priced set brunch menu available on a Saturday, but instead we decide to choose from the a la carte.  The menu is predominantly starters, sushi and sashimi, with just a few mains, so we treat it basically as dim sum.  The waiter explains that some of the dishes come with just three pieces, and offers us the chance to make them up to four to share.  I wonder if this is a sly trick to make more money, but to be fair when the bill comes the extra piece is charged pro rata. We have some edamame beans in chilli while we decide what to order.

First up come the skewered spicy prawns, and the chicken dumplings. The prawns have a good flavour, though are not that spicy, and the dumplings good but nothing special. Next come the duck spring roll (very good), and “imperial roll” (large) and some crab and prawn croquettes (excellent).  Then the Vietnamese scotch egg (interesting), duck and watermelon salad (quite large and tasty),  and spare ribs (falling off the bone) arrive.  We discuss whether we are full and decide we can manage some more. We order another duck spring roll and some prawn dumplings (good but more standard) for three of us, while K has a dessert – Asian banana crumble, which she says is wonderful.

Service has been good and attentive, and the place gradually filled up towards 4pm, giving it some atmosphere – the décor is not as dramatic as Bam Bou used to be.  Three bottles of Chilean SB at £28 each takes the bill up to just over £200 – given the quality of what we had, and how full we feel that seems pretty good.

 

THE CLOVE CLUB

M&G are generously taking us out for lunch, on behalf of M’s late mother, at the Michelin-starred Clove Club in Shoreditch – not an Indian as many people assumed.  We have a drink first in a quirky Shepherd Neame pub – the Prince Arthur – with a very chatty barman, who insists we look at the upstairs bar before we leave. There is a real fire, candles, and a strange mix of Regency cartoons and Gonzo prints on the walls.

Then on to the restaurant at Shoreditch Town Hall. It has a bar at the front but we get shown in to the main room at the back.  There is a huge brigade of staff, outnumbering the diners by two to one.  The chef featured recently as “young chef of the year” in the Observer food review – and looks about 14.

We opt for the five-course tasting menu at £65 (rather than the nine-course one!), with the complementary wine pairing at £50. But we start with some kir, champagne and a Bourbon cocktail.  We did though decide against the extra scallops course at £18.

The meal starts with a selection of “snacks” - iced beetroot with crème fraiche, crab tartlet (lovely), haggis balls (in a sweetish brioche-like bun, not as peppery as you might expect) and fried chicken in pine needles (“an up-market KFC” – much nicer).

The first course of the meal proper was tartare of hake which came with an Alsace Pinot from a magnum. The hake is an interesting idea but doesn’t taste of a great deal.  Next up is a soup course – three of us have opted out of the oysters.  Again, not that special.

The cod with beetroot and  fermented cabbage was more of a success - firm, tasty fish and some intriguing accompaniments.  I also liked the “main course” venison loin and venison sausage, though B was less impressed. 

We then opted for one portion of the extra cheese selection, which came with a Sauterne and a fino sherry.

Dessert courses were a delicate layered cream and ice cream pot,  and a rather sturdy tarte tatin – more of an English apple tart really, but good all the same.

Service was friendly and with such a big staff very efficient. The sommelier was chatty and knowledgeable.  Of the other customers, two were Silicon roundabout hipsters eating alone, four slightly older business types (still with beards), and a pair of elderly gentlemen.

As I said M&G were very generously treating us, so I don’t know the exact cost, but it must have been seriously expensive.  It had been a great experience, but at those prices I doubt we will rush back.

 

MARKET BRASSERIE

Meeting up with ex-BT colleagues, S and L, we decide to go to Shepherd Market for lunch.  Interesting French colonial African pictures on the walls.  Buzzy little place, with a strange porcelain head on one table – “watching over us” said the waiter.

L has the orecchiette with tomato and broccoli, and S the Atlantic cod (which looked like a small portion).  I go for the duck breast with Lyonnaise potatoes off the specials board – very good.  As S is off to a meeting we just have the one bottle of Chilean SB at £21.  Just under £30 a head in total including service. Not a “wow” place but pretty sound and handy to know of if you’re in the area (though of course there is plenty of choice around there).

 

DRAKE AND MORGAN, KING’S CROSS

K has stayed over with us after the party yesterday, so we go with her to King’s Cross to see her off back home. Pancras Square, round the back of the station, now has quite a range of eateries, but we settle on Drake and Morgan.

It turns out to be a huge place, done out in industrial chic, with exposed pipework.  It is pretty busy as we fetch up about 1.30pm on Sunday, but we have booked so that’s OK. We are shown to our table, miles away down the far end of the restaurant, overlooked by a huge picture of a grumpy cow.

Despite the waitress being attentive, our drinks take a while to arrive – Chenin Blanc (£18) and ginger smoothie for K.  For starters (which do arrive quickly) we have crispy squid (quite spicy) and ham croquettes (nice crispy exterior, but rather gooey insides). 

I had seen a Thai green coconut curry (with either chicken or prawns) on the website menu, but they’re not there on the day – maybe because it’s a Sunday, with roasts.  K orders the Waygu burger, but is told they’ve sold out, so she settles for a cheeseburger instead – very dense and filling. B has gone for a starter Cobb salad with chicken as main – specifically making it clear that she didn’t want a larger one. When it comes it is huge, but to be fair they only charge us for a small one - it would be far too much as a starter. I have the tuna with ginger and soy sauce, plus some chips – very good and pink, but a bit cold.

K has an espresso martini to follow, while we have a couple more glasses of wine.  £135 for three of us (2 bottles of wine) seems good value.

Late summer catch-up

Noble Rot

Five of us fetched up at Noble Rot wine bar in Lamb’s Conduit St on a hot summer’s day.  As we were shown to our table at the back of this maze of a place, our eyes gradually became accustomed the gloom, such a contrast to the weather outside.  It’s a charming spot for a winter’s day, or perhaps an illicit assignation. 

 

We settled on a bottle of Picpoul (£22) from an extensive, but not cheap, wine list. The charming young waiter explained the specials to us, including Thai Stingray.  He was unclear whether it was a starter or a main course, and insisted it wasn’t fish – I think the kitchen had been teasing him.  So after some confusion we manage to order.  I had cod and samphire to start, a smallish portion, but nicely done; others had smoked eel gazpacho (interesting) and mackerel.

 

For mains I had venison haunch, others had turbot and the Stingray – skate of course.  Three bottles of wine and £4 for some (admittedly, nice) bread took the bill up to £260 including service – which perhaps felt a little steep for a wine bar.  But it was a welcoming venue and well-produced food, so worth a visit if you’re in the area.

 

Oka

In Kingly Court, off Regent Street, near Senor Ceviche which I’ve reviewed before, the two of us decide to try the “Pan-Asian” sushi bar, Oka, for lunch. It’s a small, basic place, but the staff were very helpful and welcoming, finding us a nice table by the window. Sauvignon Blanc was £25.50, for a very nice NZ Marlborough, again perhaps a bit steep. We first ordered the spider roll, tuna tataki and the beef fillet with chimichurri sauce.  All excellent.  We followed up with the tiger king prawns, marinated salmon and some rice – again all good.  At £128 (2 bottles of SB), it again wasn’t cheap for an unpretentious place, but very enjoyable nonetheless. Tough call whether I prefer Senor Ceviche, but a good option for a change.

 

Brasserie Vacherin

I’ve reviewed our local French restaurant before and the service has sometimes been a bit mixed, but as they had (and still have) a 15% off food offer, we thought we’d give it another go.  Their Viognier from Languedoc was £24.50, but there are cheaper options available.  For starter, B had the Atlantic prawns – a sizeable portion of good-sized prawns, with garlic and parsley – while I had the reliable tuna tartare with wasabi.  Mains were lemon sole and fillet of sea bass, both good, fresh and simply done. The discount amounted to a little over £8, so the total with service was a just over £100.

 

The Refinery

After some culture at Tate Modern (Georgia O’Keefe, as you ask), we settle on The Refinery in the Blue Fin building round the back for a late lunch.  It’s a huge barn of a place, in the “industrial chic” style, and although there was one group of office workers in, we felt quite alone in the big back area.  The waitress was friendly, but after asking us for our order before we were ready then went AWOL.  We had managed to order a bottle of Chenin at £17.95 though, so it wasn’t a complete disaster.

 

For starters we had a flabby chicken satay with no oomph, and some weird prawn lollipops. The mains were a bit better – my chargrilled tuna was cooked competently, and B’s coconut prawn curry had some flavour. But overall not somewhere we’d rush back to. £79 (just one bottle and two glasses) was a fair price perhaps, but maybe it’s more somewhere to go for a regular quick lunch rather than a destination in itself.

 

Ken Lo’s Memories of China

Meeting up with S and L, we go first to the Grosvenor Hotel at Victoria station for a cocktail in their swish bar.  We’ve thought about going to about Ken Lo’s famous restaurant for many years, but now we have finally got round to it.  For a Tuesday night, it’s nicely busy and buzzy without feeling stressful; service is charming and helpful.

 

We order the Viognier at £27, and then our starters: prawn dumplings (standard), courgettes with prawns (super), smoked chicken (just OK), and a scallops, prawn and chicken in black bean sauce (excellent).  Mains are monkfish with asparagus, double cooked pork (my choice – very nice), medallions of beef, French beans and Singapore noodles.  A good, but perhaps not sensational, selection.  Just two bottles of wine means we get away with just £190 for the four of us  (13% service charge for some reason), so it feels like good value.  Worth another visit.

 

Richoux, St John’s Wood

We were at Lord’s for the climax of the County Championship (Middlesex v Yorkshire), and take a break for lunch. The Lord’s Tavern is fully booked, so we make our way to St John’s Wood, and decide on Richoux, with seats outside in the late September sun.  It’s only a light lunch, but both my “elegant rarebit” (ie with bacon) and B’s steak salad are super; the house fries were good too. (Oddly, a lady at another table also ordered the salad and had something quite different which she wasn’t very happy with).  With a bottle of Trebbiano at £17, we come away paying £44, and feeling very content – and Middlesex ended up winning.

 

Mar I Terra

After more culture at Tate Modern (the Philippe Parreno exhibit in the Turbine Hall, with moving boards, flashing lights and ambient music – what’s that smell? BS) we look at Gordon Ramsay’s Union St café, but decide against. Instead we find this little tapas bar tucked out of the way by the railway line. It perhaps seats about 30, and there were a dozen or so in.

 

The Volteo white (Verdejo-Sauvignon) at £19.50 is sharp and interesting.  The waiter recommends five dishes between two, so after some dithering over the pork belly, we decide on chick peas and spinach,  garlic prawns, grilled sardines, chicken livers and the criollo sausage off the specials menu.  Very enjoyable – the prawns had a good kick of chilli, the sardines were fresh with the flesh coming off the bones easily,  the chicken livers very intense in sherry and the chick peas with cumin; the special sausage was tasty but a little chewy.

 

Two bottles of wine takes us up to £95, including service.  This is likely to become a regular after Tate Modern visits.