Back to our favourite French place

We have a second voucher to use at The French Table, so booked a table – though it had to be in three weeks’ time. Arriving at 1.30pm we are shown to the last available table (downstairs, at least, as they now use the upstairs room for ordinary bookings to make up for social distancing) – clearly it remains a very popular local venue.

We order kir, and then decide which menu to go for – 2-course, 3-course or the £35 5-course tasting. There’s not a lot of different choices on the smaller menus, and if you added vegetables or potatoes the 3-course actually costs more than the tasting, so we go for the latter.  We don’t go for the matching wines at £25 a head though.

 Very tasty, warmed bread comes with our bottle of French Viognier (£28 a bottle), and quite promptly the amuse bouche arrives. This is cucumber gazpacho with pickled strawberry.  Very fresh and light, with truffle oil and just a few pieces of crunchy cucumber to give it a bit of a bite. Served in very attractive sloping bowls.

 The first of the five courses is melon with goats cheese in breadcrumbs and crispy Bayonne ham. It also comes with “white balsamic vinegar ice cream”.  It’s a slightly weird combination, the cheese and ham contrasting with the sweeter melon and ice cream – more like two dishes mixed up together.

 This is followed by a terrine of rabbit and ham hock, apparently with foie gras, though this is not readily identifiable. It’s a very good textured dish, supported by fruit and walnut toast.  The fish dish is hake, with olive oil mash, mushrooms, peas and a lobster sauce. Every item is excellent, and even B finishes her mash. The lobster sauce lifts everything without being too heavy.  The fish is a little too salty though.

 The meat course is pork – a small piece of belly in a rich port sauce, and a pulled pork parcel in filo pastry.  This is quite heavy and we are both now struggling to get through everything. This too is quite salty.

 The dessert is much the same as last time - chocolate “moelleux” with blackberries and blackberry ice cream, though this time without the Crunchie honeycomb. Delicious.

 Very friendly and efficient service again, though still a little thrown by the new routines – we’re more than happy to pour our own wine, but they seemed very pained to let us do it! The clientele is far from diverse – only one table seemed younger than us, all white and prosperous looking!  The bill does mount up, with a second bottle of wine and including the kir, water and 12.5% service, it came to £160. But even though I had a few more criticisms this time, it is an excellent and enjoyable lunch and we'll no doubt be back for a special occasion.