Rugby weekend in Cardiff

 A guest posting from a regular reader. The contributor's views on the rugby are his own and not necessarily endorsed by Chompers..

My son PS and I are in Cardiff for the Wales v England 2023 Home International.  We have booked dinner at Asador 44 Spanish Grill and wine bar located near the Millennium Stadium.

It's the evening before the game and the restaurant district is buzzing.  We receive a warm welcome and are guided  towards the rear of the restaurant.  Decor is very pleasant and in keeping with a bistro atmosphere

We study the menu - it’s not that extensive possibly as its rugby International weekend but it looks good, although the cost could easily run away.  

Two toro blancos wet our appetites, followed by starters of salchichon iberico ham £7.50 and salmon £9. Both tasty although the ham is round slices and somewhat understated.  It should be round - just that I was expecting something different!

We decide on the aged Pembrokeshire sirloin steak sharing platter at £65.  Celeriac, fries and a beef and rioja sauce accompany.  Rather than a whole bottle, we choose 2 glasses of decent red at £12ea. It's a long weekend! The aged steak about nine 1/4" slices in total is cooked crisp on outside and rare inside. It is deliciously tasty and beautifully tender.  The sauce adds more flavour. Overall the best steak I've had for some time.  The red wine milu roble ribera del duero is excellent.

We opt for sweets: crema catalana, a  Spanish version of creme brulee at £16 accompanied by 2 glasses of Micaela cream desert wine at £10.

The total bill with service  comes to £170. All in all an excellent meal with good attentive service. We recommend Asador for lunch or evenings.

Park House Restaurant and Wine Bar (website unavailable)

 It's Saturday evening and we've just finished watching England beat Wales at the Principality Stadium Cardiff.  Dinner has been booked at the Park House, that purports to be a fine dining restaurant. 

It's a little jaunt from the city centre but not too far away.  On arrival we see what it was in its day: probably a large mansion style  house or more likely hotel.  

We ring the bell at what appears to be the main entrance to the side wondering what's inside.  Decor is very much like a gothic mansion with lots of oak panelling. Hushed silence seems to be the watchword. The atmosphere reminds me of the reading room in a gentlemen’s club.

We are shown upstairs to a large dining room with circular tables.  We are early but note that only one other table in the room is occupied.  Our big round table could seat 6 or more but there's just 2 of us.

The principal waiter appears, welcomes us and talks us through the menu options.  We were considering the 9 course taster but learn that it's not available as a large party upstairs is having it. 

That leaves a 6 course taster or a la carte menu which looks a tad limited but includes several of the same dishes. So we both opt for the taster and wine flight.  We decline the more expensive flight for Icon wines priced at £59.

Service is brisk, delivered by two attentive but quiet waitresses, plus the main waiter who also acts as sommelier.  All very gentile and hushed.  Pin drops come to mind.

We order some sparkling English wine to kick off the evening.  Very nice. 2 x 200ml at £12 ea.

The first course, endive with apple celery walnut chutney duly arrives and our sommelier introduces and explains the first wine he has chosen - classic cuvee Nytimber Sussex.  It's a good match and we both enjoy the somewhat smallish glasses.  

Second course is confit dry aged Pembrokeshire pork belly with apple smoked eel and Lyonnaise onion.  Very tasty and generous but quite rich as it’s belly of pork.  Our wine is 2019 Old Vine Chenin Blanc Olifantsberg, Western Cape SA.  Again very pleasant.  With these flights you always want a second glass...

Third course in fairly quick succession is diver caught Orkney scallop with caper raisin cauliflower and vadouvan - delightful, and perfectly cooked.  Accompanying wine is Australian - 2021 Hen and chicken chardonnay, Larry Cherubino.  Excellent.

Fourth course arrives: dry aged Pembrokeshire beef.  It’s the highlight of the meal for me and deliciously tasty.  2019 Reserve Barossa Shiraz, Berton, Barossa Valley Australia.  An excellent match.  We had beef yesterday despite me thinking Wales is all about lamb!

At this stage there's an optional cheese tasting plate at £12 but we're beginning to sense the beckoning plimsoll line so we both decline.

Next up is the “boiled egg” - to be honest I forget what exactly this is  but recall it's sort of a chocolate fondant thing.

Finally we have Apple Sable Breton blackberry tart with a glass of 2015 Marsanne Cane Cut Tahbilk South Australia to cap it off.  It’s a classic French pudding. By this time we both feel well satisfied. 

The 6 course taster was £59 ea, the flight £35 ea. Plus a bottle of still water at £3.50.  With 12% service and £1.23 carbon free dining (??), the total comes to £243.67. 

For me quite an expensive meal but overall of very satisfying quality and delightful presentation, if not mind blowingly outstanding.  But at £59 for 6 courses very good vfm I think. Excellent service and a very attentive and friendly sommelier.  Nice to know what you're drinking and why. 

A nice round up to a great rugby weekend in Cardiff.

 

Classy tapas off Piccadilly

After a challenging session at the Anthony Gormley exhibition at the RA, we retire to the Chequers Tavern  for a much-need drink. It’s a remarkably quiet haven off Piccadilly, though with the good weather there were a lot of people drinking outside. Here we debate where to go for lunch, as the original interest in Japanese has waned.

 After a bit of Googling we settle on El Pirata, a classic tapas bar, round the back of the Athenaeum.  As we approach, we can see people sitting outside in the sunshine, but the one spare table is reserved. It’s 2pm and inside is packed. You’d have to say it was a “narrow demographic” - even compared with the RA. We are ushered to the sit at the bar (“counter”) which doesn’t really appeal, but it’s the only option. Others, having booked, or regulars known to the management do get tables.

 We order some wine – Paso a Paso, Sauvignon/Verdejo (at £25 near the cheapest on the list) – and consider the menu. There’s a wide range of options, including a special offer 2-dish lunch at £11.50, specials at around £15, paellas, and a tapas selection at £25. Or you could just choose a few dishes, which is what we did.

 The bread and aioli arrives first. Lovely soft bread, that was so tempting to keep dipping into the punchy garlic dip. Next comes the pan-fried medallions of steak in a tasty sauce.  Very tender, though the sauce wasn’t as garlic or peppery as might have been expected. With that is the chick peas with slow cooked aubergine, courgettes & peppers – a little odd, sharp and sweet at the same time.

 Then, both sizzling hot, come the gambas pil-pil and the chicken livers. Both excellent.  We had wondered whether these few dishes would be enough, but we are quite satisfied with them. Plenty of sauces to dip your bread into.

 The place is very buzzy and full, and doesn’t even start to empty out until well after 3pm. The décor is Picasso and Miro prints, with the classic display of spirits behind the bar.  Our neighbour at the bar has ordered dishes from the set menu, but his companion has failed to arrive, despite lots of calls. B decides that she must be very glamorous, as she is quite happy to keep her man waiting. He eats most of the food, but does manage to leave some for her. Eventually, a well-dressed slim Indian lady arrives – with suitcase – picks at the cold sardines and chicken croquettes, before pushing off in a taxi after no more than 30 minutes.

We order another bottle of wine while we survey the comings and goings.  Many of the dishes we’ve seen served look very good – the paella, Iberico ham, sardines, tomato bread; and there were plenty of other things on the menu we would have happily ordered.  

The final reckoning was a pretty reasonable £86 including service, given that £50 was wine.  Service at the bar had been prompt fairly friendly without being over-attentive.  It’s not in the most convenient of locations but in Michelin terms “worth a detour”. We’ll no doubt revisit, but make sure to reserve a table next time.

 

Re-opened old favourite

Our local tapas bar, Las Fuentes, has been closed for a while as the building it’s in is being re-developed.  It re-opened just before Christmas, though apparently it will need to close again while further work is done.

Previously it had been a very charming, very Spanish-looking restaurant with lots of blue tiles and friendly staff. Many of the same staff are back and are still as welcoming, but the atmosphere has changed as the décor is now much more ordinary.  The tiles are gone, and we just have a collection of simple wood tables, sitting underneath a ceiling of “industrial chic” air-conditioning tubing.

 We’re there with our neighbour K who for some reason is treating us. She wasn’t a regular of the place previously – unlike us, and another neighbour J who arrives with her son later. So the change in décor doesn’t worry her, though she’s not keen on the tubing.

 The menu is similar in content to before, though now organised by main ingredient (fish, lamb, beef etc) rather than tapas and mains. So you have to judge by the price what to order. They have always served relatively large portions for a tapas bar, and that seems to still be the case.

 We order the house white Rioja at £19, and the same wine as before arrives. K has a coke.  K wants us to suggest what we have, so we fall back on our usual selections – wild boar skewer (ordered with chips rather than polenta for K), kidneys, gambas pil pil and spicy mushrooms – plus a lamb cutlet each for K and me as that is one of her favourites.

 The wild boar, on its usual impressive vertically-hanging skewer, and the lamb cutlets arrive first.  The lamb doesn’t come away from the bone as well as you might like, and K declares it not as good as her favourite, Mekan.  We think the wild boar is very tender, but K seems to struggle, with some gristle and then losing interest.  The kidneys, despite arriving on a dish that is “too hot to touch”, are in fact lukewarm – still tasty but not the reliably warming dish I choose on cold days.  The prawns and the mushrooms are both excellent though – good hits of spice in both of them.

 K chooses ice cream for dessert, so I have a crème brulée to keep her company. It’s quite a good burnt topping, but the main body is far too chilled.

 K is paying so I don’t get a close look at the bill, but I think including service it is a little over £100 (2 bottles of wine).  It’s close enough back to its old ways for us to keep it as a regular, but I don’t think K was that impressed.

Catching up since July

I’ve been a bit remiss these last months, but here is a quick summary of places visited in the second half of the year. I no longer have all the details of what everyone had, and not all the prices, but I still have the memories!

India Club, Strand:  threatened with closure because of re-development, this throw-back to the 60s/70s was granted a reprieve. It used to be a traditional haunt of our Varsity match group, so we went along to celebrate. The room is basic – though the tables are no longer secured to the floor.  Drinks are obtained from the bar on the floor below – don’t expect anything beyond a Kingfisher or gin. Starters are standards – samosa, onion bhaji, plus a remarkably dangerous chilli bhaji. Mains are also fairly standard - lamb, butter chicken, dhal, aloo sag - but with good portions of rice and breads.  At £30 a head, it’s great fun.

Mar I Terra describes itself as “contemporary Spanish tapas”.  We’ve been before in the evening, but on this lunchtime visit after the Picasso exhibition at the Tate, we sit outside in the garden which is very pleasant.  Chilli prawns, crab-stuffed peppers, chicken livers, chorizo and morcilla with beans, chick peas are all good. Bill (with probably two bottles) comes to £92. Excellent – definitely recommend it if you are in the area. On a second visit in the early evening a couple of months later we have garlic prawns, sardines, chicken livers, beef, beans and jambon, chick peas (£75).

Guiseppe’s in Borough High Street has become B’s “go-to” restaurant. We went just the two of us first to research it, then as a group of 6, and then B went again with 4 other ex-colleagues. It’s as  clichéd as an Italian can be, short of candles in Chianti bottles. There are specials on the blackboard and all the traditional dishes you can remember.  Starters have included bresaola, scallops, prawns, calamari. Mains, spaghetti “My Way” (under a photo of Frank), veal Holstein, chicken Milanese with penne arrabiatta.  Good choice of Italian wines; generally around £50-£70 a head. Fine, convenient, but not sophisticated.

Ivy Market Grill . There are loads of Ivy spin-off places now, some of which have had unflatteringly reviews, but I think this in Covent Garden may have been the first one when the original restaurant closed for refurbishment for a while.  We went one lunchtime with S&L, and were sat next to Nicholas Lyndhurst (though he did ask to be moved!).  I had steak tartare followed by sea bass fillets and the bill came to £105 for the two of us. A very good experience. B went back again and that was good too.

Babur Brasserie I have reviewed before, but it remains worth the visit to Honor Oak Park.  Regional dishes feature strongly – this is no ordinary curry house. My meal this time was prawns and gourd to start followed by rabbit. At £106 for two this is good value.

The Oxo Tower Brasserie is a good place for a celebration. This time it was J’s 30^th, and there were 16 of us, on two tables of 8 with good river views. It’s not cheap though, and the wine does make the bill mount up. I had grilled crispy squid followed by chicken breast in a herb sauce and a tart.

Sticks ‘n’ Sushi, Wimbledon has rather less charm than its Covent Garden sister, the room being bigger and more open, with several refectory style tables, but has the same interesting menu and would be a nice reliable place to have on your doorstep. After the usual spicy edamame beans, we had beef tataki, crab croquettes, crudities and miso. Then shrimp rolls, crispy chicken rolls, duck breast and scallop and bacon sticks. With two bottles this is good value for £109

Chez Bruce:   I’ve reported on it several times, but it is still a reliable favourite for a good lunch. The parmesan crisps are still gorgeous and the atmosphere and service top-class. This time I had fishcakes with boquerones, followed by calf’s liver and then a caramel crisp. The set lunch price means this comes to £150 with a good amount of wine (though you have to hunt through the wine list to keep the cost down).

A Wong in Victoria has been around for a while, but though we’ve tried a couple of times we’ve not been able to get into this Michelin starred Chinese. So with S&L we book one evening and take on the challenging menu. It’s hard to decide how much to order, and I think in the end we were a bit conservative  for 4 Choices between us were prawn cracker, crab and prawn fritter;  duck and pancakes, lamb slider; kung pao chicken with peanuts, waygu beef, pork belly, “gold fish” dumplings, abalone, rice. £150 for two with not a lot of wine. Not yet convinced, but worth another try.

Our local tapas bar has been closed for refurbishment, but its sister, Las Fuentes in Selsdon was P&M’s choice for a birthday celebration for around 16 people. B and I had wild boar skewer, kidneys, chorizo, gambas pil pil and mussels. As good as the Purley version, with similar ambience.

After wine tasting we need something to soak up the alcohol, so twice in quick succession we go with T&K to Dim T in Victoria.  Each time we begin with beef wontons, chicken gyoza, edamame beans and various dim sum. The first time we go round again on the dim sum, but on the second visit we move on to firecracker prawns, special chicken stir-fry, chilli beef, pad thai, and Singapore noodles. It’s a big place, so generally no need to book. Coincidentally it cost £80 each time.

My colleagues organise a “round the world” series of lunches and this time we are in Jamaica at Cotton’s, Curtain Rd.   It’s a fairly basic place (though another outlet in Vauxhall is rather smarter) and being a “rum shack” does a good line in cocktails. I have the trio of vegetarian fritters followed by a lunchtime special of oxtail and bean stew with boiled rice. With one cocktail and a modest amount of wine my bill was £25.

Imperial China in Chinatown has become a regular dim sum place. After a wine tasting over in the City, we fetch up and order soft-shell crab followed by steamed king prawns, fillet beef and Singapore noodles. All for £100.

Masala Zone, Covent Garden  is another good place for a celebration, with lots of space and side rooms,  so we fetch up there for our housemate Christmas gathering. The Rajasthani  puppets dangling from the ceiling give it a great atmosphere, and despite the time of year we get good service too. There are 12 of us – any more and you have to have the set menu, but we are allowed to order individually. I have Delhi samosa, followed by Coondapur Duck, black dhal, spinach and steamed rice. With a good amount of wine this is £100 for two.  It would be interesting to try as a couple.

 

Saturday lunch with old friends

C&L sadly can’t join us, so there’s just the 5 of us meeting up for a get-together lunch.  T has suggested Barrica in Goodge Street, and as he’s a man who knows his food we’re happy to go along with that. It’s just a couple of doors down from Salt Yard, where we went for a Xmas do last year.  In between is the One Tun, so we meet there for drinks first, sitting outside on a balmy October day – not least because the Liverpool-Man U match was on inside!  

We’ve seen a number of old people (!!) going in, and true enough when we get there all the nice tables at the back have been taken by a group. So we’re given a high table with stools by the door. Not ideal, but we manage.  The style is classic tapas bar – hams hanging from hooks, marble bar-tops, tiles, but the service is friendly and fairly attentive, so it’s not too clichéd.

The menu distinguishes between bar snacks (La Barra), cured meats and tapas (La Cocina).   So as our wine arrives (Tempranillo and Verdejo), we order some tomato bread, aubergine-marinated olives (B reckoned the best ever), boquerones and corteza (puffy pork scratchings) to keep us going.  Unfortunately the guindillas  (stuffed chillies) weren’t available.

To follow we have a ham selection plate (good Serrano, some odd black salami), padron peppers (B gets the hot one first up), duck egg and asparagus (just try dividing that between 5!), two portions of garlic prawns (H is not sharing!), calamares with garlic and romesco, chorizo with sweet potatoes, lamb and mushroom skewers and ham croquettes.  The prawns were voted a great success, as were the croquettes, but I found the lamb skewer a little tough.

We suffered from the typical tapas problem – everything came in a rush, we stuffed ourselves, and are finished within an hour.  No problem – more wine! 

They come round to ask if want dessert – instead we go for more croquettes, boquerones, and escalivada (a sort of vegetable lasagne) with goat’s cheese.

The jovial patronne comes around towards the end, livening the place up. We end up with 2 red and 3 white wines. The bill is a very reasonable £33 a head, so very good value.

Friday night with the girls

We’re meeting up with S and L in Victoria, and start off just with S at the Reunion Bar at the Grosvenor Hotel for cocktails.   After a couple each, we then toddle off down Wilton Road, to find L at About Thyme.

Amongst the various restaurants in Wilton Road, this one seems very homely in comparison. We’re welcomed warmly and shown upstairs to table near the front window.  It’s busy and buzzy enough, without being noisy.

The menu is unusually divided up into “Tapas” and “Mains”, but we decide to treat the tapas as starters.  S asks the waiter about the marinated sardines – are they cooked? He says No, so she chooses lamb kidneys in sherry instead. But I decide that I will order them.  Then the waiter comes back to apologise that they didn’t have them at all!  So I order the king scallops with morcilla (black pudding) instead. L has the beef carpaccio, a generous plate of meat with plenty of parmesan, and B garlic and chilli king prawns.  We are all well-pleased with these choices; my morcilla was a bit firmer like English black pudding than some are, but excellent nonetheless.

The wine list favours Spain, so I choose a Spanish Sauvignon Blanc called Orchidea (£27.50) – lighter and more floral than some, and going down well.  There are other reasonable wines on the list too.

For mains, we all choose meat, though there are a couple of fish and seafood options on the menu. L has the veal chop – a whacking chunk of meat, with a good brandy and mushroom sauce.  S goes for the pork shoulder (presa iberica), another substantial dish served with interesting mash (or is that an oxymoron?).  B’s lamb shank is huge, served with a “Moorish-spiced coconut sauce” which she finds a little odd. My simple choice of pan-fried calves liver with bacon, is also a large portion, served with chips, done nicely pink.

None of us manage to finish our meat!  The starters had been a good size, but the mains were generally huge. L asks for a doggy bag to take back for her chap., which they happily do.

Despite that, the three of then decide to share an iced soufflé with Grand Marnier.  Very tasty that is too.

With the three bottles between us, and the now-standard 12.5% service (I’ll have to stop moaning about that), this all comes to £62 a head – pretty good value, as L’s chap will also get a meal out of it!  The service has been excellent throughout, dishes arriving at a sensible pace.  Would certainly be happy to go there another time.  

Late summer catch-up

Noble Rot

Five of us fetched up at Noble Rot wine bar in Lamb’s Conduit St on a hot summer’s day.  As we were shown to our table at the back of this maze of a place, our eyes gradually became accustomed the gloom, such a contrast to the weather outside.  It’s a charming spot for a winter’s day, or perhaps an illicit assignation. 

 

We settled on a bottle of Picpoul (£22) from an extensive, but not cheap, wine list. The charming young waiter explained the specials to us, including Thai Stingray.  He was unclear whether it was a starter or a main course, and insisted it wasn’t fish – I think the kitchen had been teasing him.  So after some confusion we manage to order.  I had cod and samphire to start, a smallish portion, but nicely done; others had smoked eel gazpacho (interesting) and mackerel.

 

For mains I had venison haunch, others had turbot and the Stingray – skate of course.  Three bottles of wine and £4 for some (admittedly, nice) bread took the bill up to £260 including service – which perhaps felt a little steep for a wine bar.  But it was a welcoming venue and well-produced food, so worth a visit if you’re in the area.

 

Oka

In Kingly Court, off Regent Street, near Senor Ceviche which I’ve reviewed before, the two of us decide to try the “Pan-Asian” sushi bar, Oka, for lunch. It’s a small, basic place, but the staff were very helpful and welcoming, finding us a nice table by the window. Sauvignon Blanc was £25.50, for a very nice NZ Marlborough, again perhaps a bit steep. We first ordered the spider roll, tuna tataki and the beef fillet with chimichurri sauce.  All excellent.  We followed up with the tiger king prawns, marinated salmon and some rice – again all good.  At £128 (2 bottles of SB), it again wasn’t cheap for an unpretentious place, but very enjoyable nonetheless. Tough call whether I prefer Senor Ceviche, but a good option for a change.

 

Brasserie Vacherin

I’ve reviewed our local French restaurant before and the service has sometimes been a bit mixed, but as they had (and still have) a 15% off food offer, we thought we’d give it another go.  Their Viognier from Languedoc was £24.50, but there are cheaper options available.  For starter, B had the Atlantic prawns – a sizeable portion of good-sized prawns, with garlic and parsley – while I had the reliable tuna tartare with wasabi.  Mains were lemon sole and fillet of sea bass, both good, fresh and simply done. The discount amounted to a little over £8, so the total with service was a just over £100.

 

The Refinery

After some culture at Tate Modern (Georgia O’Keefe, as you ask), we settle on The Refinery in the Blue Fin building round the back for a late lunch.  It’s a huge barn of a place, in the “industrial chic” style, and although there was one group of office workers in, we felt quite alone in the big back area.  The waitress was friendly, but after asking us for our order before we were ready then went AWOL.  We had managed to order a bottle of Chenin at £17.95 though, so it wasn’t a complete disaster.

 

For starters we had a flabby chicken satay with no oomph, and some weird prawn lollipops. The mains were a bit better – my chargrilled tuna was cooked competently, and B’s coconut prawn curry had some flavour. But overall not somewhere we’d rush back to. £79 (just one bottle and two glasses) was a fair price perhaps, but maybe it’s more somewhere to go for a regular quick lunch rather than a destination in itself.

 

Ken Lo’s Memories of China

Meeting up with S and L, we go first to the Grosvenor Hotel at Victoria station for a cocktail in their swish bar.  We’ve thought about going to about Ken Lo’s famous restaurant for many years, but now we have finally got round to it.  For a Tuesday night, it’s nicely busy and buzzy without feeling stressful; service is charming and helpful.

 

We order the Viognier at £27, and then our starters: prawn dumplings (standard), courgettes with prawns (super), smoked chicken (just OK), and a scallops, prawn and chicken in black bean sauce (excellent).  Mains are monkfish with asparagus, double cooked pork (my choice – very nice), medallions of beef, French beans and Singapore noodles.  A good, but perhaps not sensational, selection.  Just two bottles of wine means we get away with just £190 for the four of us  (13% service charge for some reason), so it feels like good value.  Worth another visit.

 

Richoux, St John’s Wood

We were at Lord’s for the climax of the County Championship (Middlesex v Yorkshire), and take a break for lunch. The Lord’s Tavern is fully booked, so we make our way to St John’s Wood, and decide on Richoux, with seats outside in the late September sun.  It’s only a light lunch, but both my “elegant rarebit” (ie with bacon) and B’s steak salad are super; the house fries were good too. (Oddly, a lady at another table also ordered the salad and had something quite different which she wasn’t very happy with).  With a bottle of Trebbiano at £17, we come away paying £44, and feeling very content – and Middlesex ended up winning.

 

Mar I Terra

After more culture at Tate Modern (the Philippe Parreno exhibit in the Turbine Hall, with moving boards, flashing lights and ambient music – what’s that smell? BS) we look at Gordon Ramsay’s Union St café, but decide against. Instead we find this little tapas bar tucked out of the way by the railway line. It perhaps seats about 30, and there were a dozen or so in.

 

The Volteo white (Verdejo-Sauvignon) at £19.50 is sharp and interesting.  The waiter recommends five dishes between two, so after some dithering over the pork belly, we decide on chick peas and spinach,  garlic prawns, grilled sardines, chicken livers and the criollo sausage off the specials menu.  Very enjoyable – the prawns had a good kick of chilli, the sardines were fresh with the flesh coming off the bones easily,  the chicken livers very intense in sherry and the chick peas with cumin; the special sausage was tasty but a little chewy.

 

Two bottles of wine takes us up to £95, including service.  This is likely to become a regular after Tate Modern visits.

April overview (1)

Catching up on some of the places I visited last month:

LAS FUENTES, High St, Purley
Our local tapas bar - very well-frequented. The welcome is always excellent here, with enthusiastic and lively waiters keen to help. We're so predictable in our choice of wine (the house white Rioja) that they are often ready to bring a bottle as soon as we've walked in the door - "quick wine" is what we like!

No sign of Gio, the proprietor, this time. He's still a keen cyclist, doing charity rides to Paris even though he's getting on a bit now. Used to have an eye for the ladies, though I've not seen him do that recently. The style of the place is classic Spanish tiling, with splendidly stocked bar.

Their speciality here is the skewers - lamb, beef, chicken or fish. This time we have the lamb - a good solid selection of nicely cooked meat, hanging over a plate of fried polenta. From their "specials" board (which doesn't change that much), we also have scallops and chorizo (comes with too many potatoes for my liking, but the chorizo is very good) and a relatively new addition, piquillo peppers stuffed with crabmeat. This is starting to become one of our regular choices.

Portions are always good, so 3 dishes between 2 works well enough. Good value as well - lunch usually works out around £50-£60 including plenty of wine.

It gets busy in the evenings, especially weekends. Also has a restaurant section with more formal meals.


WAGAMAMA Park Road Croydon
We're only recent converts to Wagamama, having struggled to find a suitable mix of dishes previously. We're also not that keen on the noodle dishes, so that rather limits things. The Croydon branch is much like the rest of the chain, with shared refectory tables and paper menus/placemats. On this visit it wasn't too busy, but if you're sitting near the back it can be claustrophobic here.

The food comes in the order it's ready, so that can be confusing. But this time it works OK. The spicy edmame beans are up first - good, but not as spicy as those at Dim T in Victoria. Next comes the duck gyoza (rolls) and the spicy squid. The gyoza is good and tasty, but the squid a bit of a disappointment - rather rubbery and no way spicy enough.

Mains come as hoped: beef and coriander salad and chicken tonburi(teriyaki) with a mound of boiled rice. Both good, the beef cooked well and the chicken covered in plenty of sauce. About £60 including wine, so pretty fair.


LE GARRICK WINE BAR Garrick St, Covent Garden
Meeting up with a group of friends for an annual memorial meal, at this cosy wine bar near Covent Garden. Downstairs has lots of nooks and crannies, and tables pretty close together - lovely wine bar atmosphere.

I had the calamari followed by magret de canard. Good service brought excellent French bread, and wines promptly. The calamari was good - sauteed in wine, tender and tasty. Magret de canard was correctly pink, with a fine red wine sauce and a few vegetables. A selection of chips from other people's dishes was also good - presented in the now predictable tin pots. The others all enjoyed their meals too - a very reliable place. Not cheap, as we had plenty of wine at around £20 a bottle, but fair enough to come away with £108 for 2.


AQUA South End, Croydon
It's the South Croydon Food Festival, so after wandering around looking at the stands, (surprisingly not buying anything), we fetch up at Aqua for a late lunch. Not surprisingly with all that's going on, it's pretty busy, and one room seems to have been taken over by a large group.

So to simplify things we order the mezze, while our friend H orders a mixed fish platter. The mezze is pretty impressive - first the dips, hummus, tara, tsatsiki, with plenty of pitta bread. Followed by the fish course: calamari and whitebait, both in batter - OK. Then a selection of keftedes (good and herby), dolmades, crumbly spinach pie, and tomato and halloumi. Finally comes the chicken and lamb souvlaki - a little dull, needed an enlivening chilli sauce. So a pretty filling experience overall.

Rashly we finish off with Metaxas. Outside of Greece this is rarely a good idea, and though we checked the number of stars ("25", said the waiter), the caramel flavour comes through really strongly. Not to mention the feeling the following morning!

£90 for two with lots of wine, was a pretty good result.