After several recommendations, we've arranged to take J&E to the Pig at Brockenhurst. It's an easy journey by train, and J&E pick us up at the station (it's probably a bit too far to walk). They had been when the place was under different ownership, but hadn't tried the new incarnation, which is part of a growing chain across the South of England . It's an imposing building, with large stone dogs guarding the door, and a bar and lounges off the entrance hall. We've arrived only just ahead of our booking time, so we ask to be shown straight to our table.
The restaurant is a large, multi-roomed affair. We're shown into what is effectively a conservatory, to an oversized table. We had been offered a table in the room alongside, but that was very dark and dingy. There is lots of greenery about, including a big bed of herbs beside our table. There is a nice view out to the garden - on a sunny day that would have been very pleasant. For a Tuesday lunch, it is very busy, very nearly full.
There's quite an extensive wine list, mostly in the range £30 to £60. I notice the Tabali Viognier from Chile, the same wine we normally order at Chez Bruce - £36. The food menu is a "25-mile" menu, not in length but of locally sourced food (except of course for Scottish salmon, Cornish sardines), complete with a map on the back. The menu is divided into quirky sections - piggy bits, fishy bits, garden bits; from the garden and polytunnel; Forest and Solent ( 3 veggie options, 4 meat, 3 fish).
To start J chooses the pork crackling ("Piggy bit"), which is light and golden, crunchy rather than too challenging on the teeth. E has the Cornish sardines (aka pilchards) - he doesn't comment on these, but they disappear without trace. B has the "South coast squid", which comes in very puffed up batter, with chunks of chorizo and a lemon mayo - much more batter than squid. I have "From Salt To Smoke Rare Roast Beef" on toast with horseradish. The beef is very nice, a good sized portion, though the horseradish was rather tame.
Both J and B choose skate wing - they are huge, they must have been fabulous beasts in the sea. Both have a nice golden tinge and come with capers. They taste very nice but are so large as to be disheartening. Neither J nor B come close to finishing their fish, not even getting to the point of turning over to the second side. I'm relieved to see that my sea bass is a more reasonable sized portion.This is a nicely cooked firm fillet with several cockles in a butter sauce and some very wilted chard. E has the pheasant breast with red wine sauce - again quietly demolished. We'd noticed something called "Tobacco onions" on the menu, and asked what that was - sliced onions in a paprika covering, deep-fried. So along with three-times fried chips, we give that a go. Rather disappointing, like the onions you get in Beefeater or somewhere.
For dessert I order a Lemon verbena gin jelly with lemon sorbet - interesting, but rather sweet; E has a selection of sorbets. B and I also order a glass of late-bottled Sauvignon. For some reason the waiter had been keen to persuade us to move through to the lounge for our desserts - maybe they were going for a second sitting. It's a nice room, with doors out to the garden, which looked like it would be nice in the summer. But it's a bit of a dislocation, and I had to chase up the drinks.
With just a second bottle of wine, some water and coffee, the bill comes to just over £300. Service was friendly and (until the lounge) efficient enough. It's been a competent and interesting meal without hitting any heights, rather too self-regarding for my liking. It's a cut above most gastro-pubs, but not a fine dining experience - the price reflects that fairly enough.
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