Easter on the Wirral

EASTER ON THE WIRRAL

We’re visiting G&S on the Wirral, and on Easter Sunday we’ve booked to go to the Burnt Truffle in Heswall, along with L.  B had spotted a review of the restaurant some time ago but this was the first time we’d had chance to go and try it out ourselves.  Chef  Gary Usher is also responsible for Sticky Walnut and Hispi near Chester. Burnt Truffle was launched with the help of crowdfunding – the list of backers is on the wall downstairs, including some well-known names.

We are seated upstairs in a corner area which is almost like a private room - apart from the fact that the waiting staff have to pass by to go to the back-room for wine etc. The place is nice and bright with an odd mix of things on the wall – from a poster of Jack Kerouac’s On the Road to a collection of menus from famous restaurants like the French Laundry.  And a long chalked up wine list.

Service is attentive and friendly, though oddly we are told to order wine from the printed list rather than the board, which is a shame because I’d already selected one. Anyway we go with the Viognier from the Northern Rhone at £29.50, and some sparkling elderflower for L.  The beer list looks good too, with bottles from local breweries.

The set lunch menu has five options per course at £22 a head.  Sourdough bread with an excellent truffle and walnut butter arrives first – we’d commented on the attractive loaves on the way in.  After we’ve ordered I comment that despite the restaurant name, there were no truffles in any of the dishes – so we order an extra portion of truffle chips with parmesan flakes.

For starters, three of us, including me, order wood pigeon breast with beetroot fregola (little round balls of pasta from Sardinia made red by the beetroot).  This is fantastic, just melt in the mouth; the beetroot flavour is very subtle and the pasta light. B has the pork cheek and tongue terrine with Armagnac  prune which is firm and full of flavour, while L has cauliflower soup, a rich, creamy bowlful topped with rocket pesto.

For main courses we split three to two. I have the crispy duck leg with cassoulet.  The duck falls away from the bone, and though crispy is not dry.  The cassoulet contains smoked sausage and pieces of ham, and is warming and filling, a fine example. Truffle chips are good too!  B has the grilled seabream with a pale taramasalata and watercress. Sensible size portions too, leaving room for dessert.

 As always if it’s on the menu I then have crème brûlée.  This comes in a shallow dish, so has a good ratio of brûlée to crème, but is not as vanilla flavoured as some (it’s hard to beat Chez Bruce).  B’s dessert is rather unusual: Tonka bean custard with fromage blanc, dark chocolate and hazelnuts. We had to look up what Tonka beans are – South American beans with a flavour similar to vanilla – nothing to do with Tonka toys. It’s an insubstantial, foamy sort of dish, perhaps not their best.  Other dessert choices were chocolate mousse with honeycomb, and sticky toffee pudding with honeycomb ice-cream.

 We’ve had three bottles of the Viognier, so the bill comes to an extremely reasonable £220 for five before tip.  As well as the good food, the atmosphere and timing of service have been excellent, so we come away feeling well pleased.  I’d certainly put Burnt Truffle as a contender for a Michelin star next year.

 

Other Wirral restaurants

On our first night with G&S we go into Parkgate to Britannia Spice the local Indian.  This has a long list of individualistic dishes, as well as the usual permutations.  B and I just have a mixed kebab and chicken chat to start but G&S insist we try their Britannia

Special too – deep-fried chicken tikka with cheese and omelette, interesting but a little strange.  B has some excellent tandoori king prawns for main, while I try the lamb gobi jaipura, with some channa masala, dhal,  mushroom rice and naan.  We also have a couple of bottles of Malbec between us.  Very good at £90 for four, including generous tip.

 Less successful is Gusto in Heswall.  We’ve booked for 8pm and arrive on time, but are told our table is not ready, and to have a  drink in the bar.  After a while, B decides to chase them up and pesters the greeter, who contacts her manager. This does result in a table being made available, fortunately near the entrance. I say fortunately because the place is heaving and loud, and the low ceilings and dark lighting would have it oppressive further in. Even then the table next to us are very loud and seem to be best friends with everyone who passes by.  We have some edamame beans while we choose what to order.  I start with meatballs (fine but unimpressive) and B with a smoked haddock risotto, a sensible small portion.  My main course pork belly is rather dry, and the crackling rather firm; B’s garlic prawns are OK.  £75 for two with wine.

 The last night is back to Parkgate for Chinese at Chow’s Eating House.  Again we have to wait in the bar for the table to be ready, but this is done much more sensitively. And when we are seated, it is at a nice big round table with plenty of space. The waitress intelligently asks at the start whether we’d like to book a taxi for later, as on a Saturday night it will be busy – and in due course the taxi arrives bang on time.  G&S have hot and sour soup to start, while we share pork and prawn dumplings and a duck spring roll.  For main we have Beijing prawns and Szechuan fillet steak; G&S have scallops in a bird’s nest and Beijing chicken. We’d been told Beijing sauce was hot, but it wasn’t too much – the Szechuan was hotter.  All very good and flavoursome, with friendly waitresses - £174 for the four of us with three bottles of Laughing Giraffe Shiraz from South Africa at £19 each.