CINNAMON KITCHEN, BATTERSEA

Vivek Singh’s Cinnamon empire has expanded again with a so-called “pop-up” restaurant in the new development at Battersea Power Station. It’s a little tricky to find, hidden under a railway arch, in the new developing up-market area.  A nearby shop has a huge range of posh foods, several of which I’d never heard of (chia seeds anyone?) and a fine wine selection that goes up to £2,000!  They must be expecting oligarchs to buy all the apartments – the one with 2 bedrooms at £2.4 million looks quite nice.


Cinnamon Kitchen is a mid-range offering, like the one in Devonshire Square.  We’re particularly attracted because there’s a 50% off food offer on until 2^nd April. So we round up P&M and head off there on a chilly Wednesday.

The restaurant is long and fairly narrow, and we get shown to a table down towards the far end, fairly close to the open kitchen. It is at least nice and warm in here! The welcome is warm and friendly too.  There are good few people in, for a mid-week lunch in the middle of nowhere.  The décor is a calming dark green, with industrial chic exposed pipework. It looks rather more substantial than the term “pop-up” suggests (in fact the website now describes the offer as a “soft launch”).

The wine list gets a little steep, but we find a Trebbiano/Chardonnay for £25 that is perfectly acceptable.  P&M both have draft Cobra.  We’re offered the lunch menu only, which seems a little limited.  I ask whether the a la carte is available, but no, only in the evening. But we are OK for the 50% off the lunch menu too.

The menu is divided into a “small plates” plus one course lunch, and a two/three course set lunch. P and B both order the tandoori chicken tikka, and spicy lamb curry off the two-course menu.  M has tandoori fruit cups off the “smalls” followed by honey ribs. I have  samosa chat and tandoori chicken korma.  P orders a tadka dhal, and B the black dhal – the waiter suggests a 3-dhal option (with chick peas), but they stick with their choices.  Also a garlic naan.

The starter tandoori tikkas are nicely moist meat with a subtle range of spice. M reckons her tandoori fruit is spicier, and my samosa chat is a riot of flavours with spicy chick peas. The spicy lamb curry isn’t that hot, but very tender and full of flavour. M’s ribs are excellent, gooey, with seeds on top, and falling off the bone. The one low note is my chicken korma, which is rather bland, though again the chicken itself was good. The dhals and naan are good too.

P is the only one to venture on to dessert - spicy bread and butter pudding. A modest size portion, very light with candied peel – not that spicy. Service has been very good, chatty when we wanted it. The main waiter is loan from Devonshire Square, and tells fun stories about not recognising Vivek when he was first there.  Total bill is just £115; the 50% food saving was £47, so even at full price this was exceptional value.