Saturday, 13 October 2012

Interesting spot in Wimbledon Village


We’re over in Wimbledon, so we go up to Wimbledon Village to cruise round and have a relaxing lunch. We looked at a new place called the Lawn (geddit?), but instead decide on the Butcher and Grill.  This has an attractive meat counter at the front, with sundries such as gravy on sale too.  Disturbingly for a Friday lunchtime, there is no-one else in the place, but that doesn’t stop the waitress asking whether we’d booked! So we get the choice of seats, settling in a large booth for 6.  Despite the lack of people, there’s quite a nice atmosphere in here – lots of light from the atrium, cheery staff, and good blues and rock discreetly on the sound system.
The menu as you’d expect is one mainly for carnivores, and the specials list offers large porterhouse steaks and spare ribs for sharing – some even up to 1 kilo!  To start I have a very tasty coarse pork pate, which comes attractively served on a wooden platter, accompanied by gherkins, caramel onions and rocket.  B has the crispy pork belly, which surprisingly is crispy because of its batter, not its crackling and accompanied by a scallop.  Very enjoyable too.

Main courses  are veal escalope for me and grilled bream for B. These are less successful. My veal is rather chewy, so I only manage 2 of the 3 slices. The accompanying chips are really wedges with the skin on, served in a chipped (!) terracotta flowerpot, and on the stodgy side.  B’s fish looks impressive served whole but is difficult to manage and a bit overcooked.  Wine as £15.50, so the bill comes to £90, which feels a little steep given the experience, but I feel we were maybe a bit unlucky and would be prepared to give oit another try for full-blooded steaks.

Dranatically opulent brasserie near Picadilly Circus

We’d read several reviews of Brasserie Zédel, the new Parisian-style brasserie by Chris Corbin and Jeremy King (of Wolseley fame) by Piccadilly Circus, so we head along for a midweek lunch with friends M and C.   Arriving at the modest entry and small upstairs bar, you have no idea of what waits below, down the Art Deco carpeted, mirrored staircase that must surely have featured in several episodes of Poirot.  Past the Bar Americain cocktail bar (closed lunchtime) and The Crazy Coqs cabaret, you arrive at the huge brasserie, packed full even midweek. Apparently this huge room was once the ballroom of the Regent Hotel, and it has been splendidly restored with marble and lovely original lighting.  It’s a buzzy, fabulously glamorous place, but what we know from the reviews is that it’s also cheap!  Starters from £2.50, most mains between £10 and £15; Prix Fixe from £8.75 for two courses!

We join our friends at the table and settle down to take in the view. There must be around 200 people in here, with “walk-ins” accommodated at the counter.  M spots Harry Enfield at one table, and later, Eleanor Bron arrives – not our usual dining companions.  
The wine list is resolutely French, starting at £16 a bottle, with nearly all available by the glass. We have the Picpoul de Pinet at £22.50, light and fresh.  The menu of course is also entirely French brasserie (assuming you count Alsacian choucroute as French – I don’t think I’ve seen a choice of 3 couchroutes anywhere before).  To start M chooses the Parfait de Foie de Volaille, which she likes immensely but declares rather rich – so we have to help out.  C has the Pâté de Campagne Maison which is good coarse terrine.  B’s tartare saumon is the most expensive of our starters at £6.50, and fairly small, but she thinks it’s very good.  I choose the Pissaladière, because I’d recently cut out the recipe from a paper and was thinking of doing it. It’s a pastry base covered with caramelised onions with anchovies and olives.  Sadly the base was rather stodgy and the onion lukewarm, so I wasn’t impressed, though in all honesty I don’t know whether it was typical of its kind.

M follows with pan-fried plaice, which is also good, while C has the confit de canard, with white beans, which she is less taken with – dryish with dull beans.  By coincidence, B and I have both chosen the couscous with skewers of lamb, lamb’s liver and merguez. This comes served together on one platter, with huge daggers eat it with.  Some of the liver is a little chewy and the couscous a bit watery, but overall an enjoyable dish. 
B and I have desserts: crème brulee for me (excellently creamy and too rich for me – M helps to scoop it up), Chocolate Liegeois for B, while the others have coffee.

With three bottles of wine, we’ve managed to push the bill up to £172, £43 a head. But for such an experience and quality food (if not Wolseley standard), it is certainly to be recommended, and you could get away with far less.

Modern Italian in Croydon

As the name might imply Il Ponte Nuovo is a new incarnation of Il Ponte, across the road from the original, under the Croydon flyover.  We’d only been to Il Ponte once for a fairly average pizza, but as we’re always looking for places to go in Croydon with our friends P&M, we thought we’d give it a try one Friday lunchtime.

We’re shown to an oval shaped booth behind the main bar, and are surprised at the size of the place. There are several large tables, which fill up with office groups, and a whole further area towards the back, and a private room to the side.  The style is very modern, rather harsh perhaps, with acoustics which are rather challenging.
Service is prompt and we are soon into our first bottle of an Italian Sauvingon Blanc at £18.25 (lunches with P&M are often a little on the alcoholic side!).  Ordering takes a little longer, as the menu (under the control of Sicilian-born head chef, Tindaro Casamento) is very extensive – lots of interesting sounding starters (including a smoked duck salad), pasta, pizza and a good list of fish and meat dishes.

In the end we decide against starters, and move straight into mains. M and I both have the veal escalope, served with spaghetti.  This is a good sized portion, nicely breaded and tasty, and the spaghetti prevents it being too dry.  B has the salmon and prawns: this is an oven baked salmon steak topped with smoked salmon & prawns. The accompanying lemon sauce is a bit overpowering, but the fish itself is really good.  P goes for the calves liver, served properly pink, with mash and a sage sauce.  We also have a side order of deep-fried courgettes.
We outlast most of the groups, so the place becomes quieter again – it’s a slightly odd atmosphere. Service has been good, and with the 4 bottles of wine the bill comes to a bit over £150 with service (ie well over 50% on wine!).

Despite my comments about the atmosphere, I did enjoy the food, so will probably be back to explore the starter menu.

Saturday, 6 October 2012

Long weekend in New Forest and Bournemouth


We’re off to visit our friends P&M at their flat by the sea near Bournemouth, and plan to call in at B’s aunt and uncle’s in Lymington on the way back.  I decide to break our journey down with lunch in a pub in the New Forest, so after a bit of research in the Good Pub Guide, I settle on the Three Tuns in Bransgore.
Getting there however proves a bit more of a challenge. First we miss the turning off the A31, then nearly miss the next turning as well.  Approaching the village, we see signs for the Three Tuns Beer Festival which is on that weekend, but then encounter a Road Closed sign – looks like sewer works. So we turn round and follow the diversion signs, and come back into the village the other way – no sign of the pub. The Guide said the pub was opposite the church so we follow signs to a “Community church”, but that is clearly not the place, and then find ourselves on the wrong side of the roadworks again.

So putting pride aside, I wind down the window and ask a lady passing by – but she’s not a local and has no idea. Further on, I have to resort to getting out and asking a passing cyclist, and at last get some directions – “opposite the church”. Anyway we eventually find the place, an attractive thatched building, with a very full car-park. There are bouncy castles and slides outside but we go on  in to the bar. There is a restaurant area as well, serving more sophisticated dishes such as rabbit pie, pan-fried sea bass, and garlic prawns, but as we’re expecting to eat out in the evening, we settle for the bar menu.
The pub is pretty busy and the service at the bar very slow, but finally I get to order – venison pasty for me and chicken Caesar salad for B. There is a range of four local beers plus Doom Bar, but we have the Chilean Sauvignon Blanc and some water – that takes the bill to £37, so not a cheap place. The venison pasty is excellent – full of meat, and more like venison en croute. The accompanying chips though are only lukewarm, and the apple and shredded carrot garnish distinctly odd.  The Caesar salad is full of chicken, anchovies and fresh croutons, but the chicken itself lacking in flavour.

As the pub is “opposite the church” it fills up with guests for a wedding, including a giant of a man who fills the doorway and has to stoop under the low roof beams. The beer festival will feature various musicians, but there weren’t any there at the time. Outside the kids are playing happily, and a hog roast is doing good trade, as a steam traction engine pulls up. Clearly a fun place to be – once you find it.
That evening we are in Southbourne, and after a healthy walk along the promenade we head out to a little local Italian called Café Riva on Fisherman’s Walk, Boscombe overcliff.  The place is very simple, looking more like a beach café than a restaurant proper, but the menu is very varied, and the service prompt and friendly.  To start I have the beef carpaccio – a generous portion with rocket and onion garnish.  B has scallops and chorizo, which is excellent, coming with a tangy sauce. P goes for the mussels – a huge pot, in rich wine and cream sauce – while M decides she doesn’t want much, so chooses the melon and prosciutto, which nonetheless is also large.

For my main course I choose the fish of the day: brill. This turns out to be two large fillets, with green sauce, accompanied by excellent chips. Sadly I only manage to eat half, and although the waitress offers, we can’t really take the remainder away.  B orders the fillet steak, which comes a little more well done than the “rare” she ordered, but is still very good. P orders the extremely rich sounding chicken roulade – stuffed with spinach and cream cheese, in a creamy sauce – which he does manage to finish, but only just. M has the tagliatelle mediterrean – a vegetarian option, which she says is very good.   With three bottles of wine between us the bill is just under £130 for the 4 of us, excellent value for such good food served in unpretentious and friendly surroundings.
The next day we take a foot ferry across from Tuckton Bridge to Mudeford flats to see the £170,000 beach huts. Not for us I think. We arrive for an early lunch at the Beach House Cafe, another place that looks like a simple cafeteria. But in fact again the menu is interesting, and it is waiter service.  The starters look interesting (eg calamari) but we just have main courses.  I go for the fish of the day again – this time it’s hake on mushroom risotto. This is full of flavour, with the risotto an excellent support.  B has the mussels here, again in a creamy sauce, but not too rich. They’re tasty, but not as full and plump as she really likes them.  M has the fish pie which comes in a traditional steel dish, covered in thick golden topping with a huge prawn sticking out – seems like a fine example of the dish. P chooses the aubergine tian, which looks something of a mess on the plate. Lots of tomato sauce is topped with mushy looking aubergine and courgettes, but he seems to like it well enough.  B and I have a bottle of wine, while the others have a local cider – very pale looking, bringing the bill to about £75.

Day 3 and we head into Bournemouth and on the rich enclave of Sandbanks for a little nose around. Properties on offer at around £7 million, but there seem to be a lot for sale, so maybe you could drive a a hard bargain. From there we go into Poole, and choose the Banana Wharf,  overlooking the harbour for lunch. It’s a big place, but pretty quiet on a Monday lunchtime. The menu here is very extensive, so it takes us a while to choose. Eventually P decides on the marinara linguine, at which point the waitress points out there is a “two-for-one” offer on pasta and pizza. As M was going to choose pizza anyway, this is a good deal for us, but rubbish marketing, as there was no indication outside, and we’d been expecting to pay the full price.  The linguine is good, without masses of tomato sauce, and M’s pizza with tuna and anchovies, very thin and crispy.   B has the Eight King Prawns, hot in a garlic sauce – very good.  But the highlight in terms of presentation at least was the chicken fajitas I ordered. This arrives on a specially designed wooden tray, with the chicken (mounds of it) in a sizzling tray and the accompanying guacamole, soured cream, tomato relish and cheese in separate pots at the back, with the wraps folded in a rack on the side.  The wraps were a bit heavy, but the chicken really tasty. We have one bottle of wine (guess what, Chilean Sauvignon Blanc) while P&M have San Miguel.  This brings the bill to £66, again good value.
After lunch we say goodbye to P&M and head over to Lymington. J&E have booked us in for an early dinner at The Mill at Gordleton  just a short drive away. This is an almost ridiculously romantic setting, with a short walk from the car park over a little softly lit bridge across the mill stream to the hotel which is covered in creepers, with attractive steel sculptures spotlit in the garden.  There’s  a terrace area for summer meals, but this evening we are inside. We are first in, so get a lovely table by the window overlooking the garden, but the place does fill up pretty well for a Monday night.  Inside the décor is a combination of attractive paintings and some rather large and garish silk flowers, but the overall style is very polished – much more so than any of our other meals this weekend.

Three of us order from the set menu, but B chooses from “Signature” a la carte menu. She has the Asian spiced gravadlax of organic salmon with cucumber raita and chilli naan to start.  The salmon itself is nothing remarkable, but the accompaniments are good, and it is elegantly presented.  For main course she has the Devonshire duck breast in a cherry brandy sauce.  This is a large portion of beautifully pink duck, which comes with sweet potato fondant and  buttered greens. Definitely a good choice.  

Both J&E have the goats cheese starter, which is an ample portion, while I have the curried parsnip soup of the day – a rich warming broth. E and I then have the salmon and prawn “en pappiette”. This is a dramatic presentation of lightly charred parchment (not edible – we tried!) enfolding the fish, with potatoes and courgettes in a light sauce.  J orders the lamb, and asks for it not too pink, which is how it arrives. The main courses are accompanied by a dish of seasonal vegetables (ie nothing very interesting) nicely cooked al dente.
For dessert, I have the crème brulee – another large portion which I don’t finish – J has ice cream with ginger, and E a sorbet.

The wine list starts at £18 for the house wines (Pinot Grigio and Malbec), there are special offers on bin-ends, and a good range of wines by the glass. We chose an Argentinian Viognier (Alma Mora, San Juan 2009/10) at £22, and we also had two bottles of water and coffees.  

Several of the waiters were quite young and probably inexperienced, so were a little hesitant, but this didn’t really detract from a lovely evening. The owner was at one table with her daughter and friends, and happily chatting to the guests. And to top off the romantic style, as we were leaving we saw that one couple had been presented with a plate of chocolates, with “Happy Anniversary” written in chocolate around the edge.
The set menu was good value, so all this luxury came to just £174 for the 4 of us – you just need to find a romantic partner!