Sunday, 5 April 2015

Three January birthday celebrations


M&G invited us to lunch to celebrate B’s birthday, and came up with Northbank as a good venue, on the Embankment path just north of the Millennium Bridge.  We’d been there (or its predecessor) before, sitting outside for a drink with the great view, but hadn’t previously eaten in the main restaurant.
We have a bottle of Prosecco between us in the bar to start and then move on in to a surprisingly busy room for a mid-week lunchtime. The clientele is rather corporate-looking, as is the general design of the place – apart from a rather radical wallpaper design, replicated on the menu cover, featuring a mugging, a homeless person and police cars, against a background of London tourist sights!
G orders both some white, the enticingly named Original Sin Sauvignon Blanc, from La Vierge, South Africa, and the equally intriguing red  Saurus Select Malbec from  Familia Schroeder, Patagonia (though there were some votes for “The Idiot Shiraz”).  Both are excellent, though we later as we needed another bottle, we had some debate about whether there was such a thing as a second Original Sin!

For starter I have three excellent scallops served with black pudding and B has a rather simpler smoked salmon served with melba toast.  M’s potted chicken comes with some interesting gherkin pieces, while G’s grilled mackerel is also good. A pretty solid start.

Main courses are even better.  My pork belly has crackling that is perfect, better than any I’ve had – crisp, yet not teeth threatening, and comes with a luscious sauce.  B’s duck breast is also lovely – nicely pink and again with a good sauce. M chooses the fish of the day, whole plaice – another winner. G’s calves liver looks a little over-cooked to me, but he’s very happy with it.

We’re pretty full, but the Malbec remains enticing so we order a plate of cheese between the four of us to provide an excuse. The portions of the four distinctive cheeses (including Yarg) were quite small, but that was fine as they supported the wine excellently.

M&G generously paid (thanks, guys) so I’ve no idea what it cost – not cheap I suspect.  Apart from the slightly corporate atmosphere, this was an excellent place with some of the best food we’ve had in a while.

A couple of days later on a Friday night we find ourselves in Bam-Bou, a Chinese/Thai/Vietnamese restaurant in Percy St, at the junction with Charlotte Street.  It’s a gorgeously decorated place on several floors, with a cocktail bar at the top, which is where we join S for a drink.  We’ve had to book early, as the restaurant had said they were busy, so we’ve fallen in with the doors at 5.30pm. Obviously it’s pretty quiet then, but the bar fills up within half an hour. We each order cocktails (about £10 each) and then a bottle of Chenin Blanc at about £20. We’re joined by A who chooses a Japanese whisky from the extensive (and expensive) list.

We go to our table on the ground floor at 6.30pm – the room is only half full. In fact it never gets really full (though there is some turnover of tables) so we don’t quite get why we had to be there so early.  We make the mistake of allowing A to order the wines – his taste is a little on the pricey side, so by the end of the evening it all mounts up. Nonetheless you can’t say a word against the Cape Mentelle Sauvignon Blanc from Margret River or the Elderton Shiraz/Cabernet from Barossa Valley.

We share starters between the four of us – edamame beans while we order, then soft shell crab, crab and green mango salad, Hanoi ribs and grilled prawns. All were good without standing out, except perhaps the crab salad which was a very good fresh dish.

For my main course I had the slow braised ox cheek.  It was very tender but didn’t have much spiciness. B on the other hand had the very chilli-tasting wok prawns which was very good.  S had crispy quail which had a nice batter, and A had a vegetable noodle bowl, with some grilled aubergine.  We shared a rhubarb parfait and coconut panna cotta for dessert.

The service was very good (efficient and quiet) and the atmosphere excellent – buzzy and oriental.  Because of the cocktails and expensive wines the bill came to a whopping £377, two-thirds of which was booze.  £100 for food for four is not so bad, so more careful diners could manage to get good value for money.

On Monday we’re off to Ronnie Scott’s to see Billy Cobham (no, I hadn’t heard of him either, but he was good and the Guardian review liked him too).  So we try out Nopi, an Ottolenghi restaurant off Regent Street beforehand.

As we’re eating early, the place is nearly empty when we arrive, but we are still shown right to the back – obviously we’re not the beautiful people they expect.  The décor is restrained and relaxing beige, with light wood furniture.  We’ve opted for the main restaurant, though apparently you can eat downstairs to watch the “theatre kitchen”. 

We order some spicy roasted nuts and the cheapest white wine (Savia Viva Classico Blanco, Penedes - £25) while we consider the menu. Like Bam-Bou the wine list shoots up quite quickly (£140 for a Trebbiano anyone?).  Sparkling water is free though.

Like many places now, the approach is small sharing plates, so we order four.  The trouble is that each is the price of a main course in a more down to earth place.  The menu leans heavily on vegetarian dishes but we have two meat, one fish and a cheese dish.

The venison with caramelised yoghurt, blackberries and peanut crumble is very tender and tasty but not as interesting as the ingredient list suggests.  The “twice-cooked baby chicken” with chilli sauce is very moist and melting, with the chilli being a hint of flavour rather than dominating. Stone bass, urid dahl, hot and sour aubergine is similarly good with subtle supporting flavours. Burrata (a very soft light cheese) with coriander seeds and accompanied by blood orange is refreshing and tangy at the same time.
With an extra glass of wine each, this brings the total up to £97, broadly acceptable in the end. As we leave the place is full,  and the display of veggie dishes looks impressive.

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