Return to a cute little Italian

We used to go to Pulcinella in Coulsdon  fairly frequently but for no particular reason it’s been a while. But for some reason, on a Friday evening, the idea comes up so we book a table and then get the bus down.

It’s as well that we booked – the place is full, and people are being turned away. That means there may be as many as 20 people in there!  It’s like eating in someone’s front room – if that person had a passion for Italian décor clichés, stopping just short of candles in Chianti bottles.  The cuisine is Neapolitan and chef Mario also runs cookery courses (or “coarses” as their website has it!) covering the whole of the Campania region.  The most distinctive feature of the place though is that there is an ever-changing selection of at least six specials written up on three blackboards.

We order some Frascati (£16) from the attentive waiter – a vast improvement on the lady who used to be there, and clearly didn’t want to be, or on Mario himself doubling up as both waiter and chef as had been the case on some quiet Tuesday lunches.  We also order their garlic bread with mozzarella which, as always, is gooey and very garlicky.

I have the smoked mackerel starter off the specials board, which is very good and fishy. But we both return to the standard menu for mains – B has tagliatelle with mushrooms and prawns, and I have the pork loin with mushrooms.  Both are good but not special. 

With a second bottle of wine, this comes to a very reasonable £70 plus service.