Desert Island Dishes at Cinnamon Kitchen

As part of London Restaurant Month, Vivek Singh is doing his “Desert Island Dishes” at the Cinnamon Kitchen, sister restaurant to the prestigious Cinnamon Club, over in Devonshire Square, off Bishopsgate.  We’ve been once before and not been too impressed, but thought this special Sunday lunch might be worth a go.  The basic idea is to feature his favourite dishes, mainly originating in Bengali wedding feasts.

We’re booked in for 1.30pm, and shown to a table fairly near the door, out of range of the open-plan kitchen.  From an extensive, but fairly reasonable wine list we order the Pays D’Oc Vermentino at £25 – instead of the wine flight option at £45 a head.  It takes a while to arrive, and it becomes clear that the waiter forgot to place the order, so we have to prompt them again. The same happens with the fizzy water – not a great start.

The place is nearly full, which must mean it was worth doing the offer. The staff, although friendly, have the air and build of Russian mafia, so are a bit intimidating at first.  But we settle in and the set meal (non-vegetarian option) starts to arrive.  The man himself, VS, is wandering around and glad-handing, having selfies taken, and we have a nice little chat.

First up is the “appetiser” – a Bengali-style crab and beetroot cake. This is much more substantial than we expected – two large croquettes in effect.  The overall taste is of zingy fresh spices, nothing of the beetroot, with just a couple of pieces of identifiable crab, and a couple of little sauces.

“Starter” is bream in banana leaf with mango chutney. B finds it too fishy (!) but I think it is a good balance of flavours.

The main course consists of three meat dishes, plus pilau rice, raita and breads. The Laal Maas is a very spicy, lamb curry with strips of ginger, and very tasty.  The Bengali style shrimp curry is also good, but the chicken butter masala rather less interesting.  VS is wandering around again and brings us – “as a gift from him” – two of the dishes off the vegetarian menu (presumably not selling well!),  spinach, and an absolutely delicious cauliflower with vinegar.  Feeling quite full now!

We’ve got through the second bottle by now, so order more drinks to go with dessert. B just has another glass, but I choose to go for the sweet wine that was the selected accompaniment from the wine flight – a Sauternes.

The menu suggests there’s a choice of two desserts, but they just bring us both.  There’s an apple and blackberry crumble, rather de-contsructed, which tastes much like a posh muesli bar.  And gulab jamun  a splendid creamy dish with flavoured sweet rice balls.  Both excellent.  And as my glass of Sauternes is running low, the now-chatty Mafioso comes over and tops it up for free!

VS is on hand to sign any of his cookbooks you might want to buy, but B just gets him to sign our menu.

A splendid lunch – not cheap of course. And I don’t know whether it will represent what they might do on a normal day, but it has made us re-evaluate our previous view, and be prepared to try it again.